I DON’T love this beer as much as I love Stokey Brown. Anyone who has been in the shop and asked me for a recommendation in the last six months will almost certainly have been pointed towards Stokey Brown, and that isn’t about to change, but this Street Porter is perhaps the most quintessentially British porter I’ve tasted in a while.

Pouring deep black with a thin toffee head, the aroma is reminiscent of sweet milky tea, café latte, and almond milk. Underneath this sweet delicacy there’s some ashen malt bitterness and a faint hint of British hops’ unmistakeable earthy, moist aroma.

Sweet and light bodied, the milky, sweet tea carries through to the flavour, accented by cinnamon toast and char. Condensed milk and liquorice transform into blanched peanuts, while the damp wood and earth of British hops provide depth and contrast. The finish sees orange pith and black pepper sitting alongside a smooth, creamy finish and a hint of sourness.

Nobody may be quite certain how porter came about, or at the very least they may not be able to reach a consensus with anybody else, but Street Porter is one that wears its British heritage proudly on its sleeve.

Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, York