David Wall gave up his job as an IT consultant in August 2010 and spent four months learning how to brew beer before setting up Wall’s Brewery in Northallerton in January 2011.

Business has been good, and in March 2012 this week’s featured beer made its first appearance as a special for a local, German-themed festival.

It uses German malt, and German and Polish hops, and takes its name from German slang for a hangover, Katzenjammer (literally “cats wail”).

The colour is hazy amber with some red highlights, and a thick creamy head subsiding to a persistent fizzy layer.

The aroma is predominantly malty with some quite resinous hops, a touch of vanilla and a little yeasty sting in the background. Malt dominates the flavour too, accompanied by red fruits and an intriguing, slightly woody, lactic sourness that brings to mind some of the soured red ales of Belgium. The aftertaste is long, smooth and fruity with just a modest bitterness at the finish.

An unusual, distinctive and very drinkable ruby ale with a continental twist, and probably a low enough alcohol content to avoid living up to its name.

• Recommended by Jim Helsby, of the York Beer And Wine Shop, Sandringham Street, York