THE world of wine is curious, as I am reminded often. Just when I think that I have a position on wine, something comes along and knocks my theories off-course.

Theories such as: single varietal merlot is usually dull and if I was writing about a bottle of Californian merlot, a Chilean merlot and a bottle of merlot from Bordeaux, the Bordeaux would be the one that cost me more than a tenner. Wouldn't it?

Not in topsy-turvy Tipping's Tipples land. Where it is the Bordeaux that comes in under a fiver, in the shape of Marks & Spencer Bordeaux Merlot 2004. It's perfect for chucking in the gravy to start, then you can drink the rest yourself, pretend you're Keith Floyd, open another bottle, put The Stranglers on really loud, fall asleep... the usual Sunday routine. It is dry, smooth, spicy, casserole-friendly stuff with under-ripe plum fruit.

If you're happier spending a little more on a claret, then upgrade to Chateau de Lussac 2001, from the Lussac Saint-Emilion appellation on the outskirts of the Saint-Emilion district of Bordeaux. This is 80 per cent merlot, the remainder being cabernet franc. It is smooth, powerful and fiery with dark fruit, black pepper and supple tannins.

I like the simplicity of Santa Rita Merlot Reserva 2005 from the Maipo Valley in Chile, and there's 20 per cent off at Majestic in November and December. It is approachable with soft, rich plums and dark chocolate.

It is a shame Kendal-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Merlot 2002 is not more widely available. The Californian cuvee of merlot from Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino is elegant, beautifully oaked and full of spicy, cherry, plum and berry fruit, but it isn't jammy. With good round tannins, I guess you could say it is an unexpectedly classy drop and very enjoyable.

But of course I agree with Miles, the character from the film Sideways, and would rather drink pinot noir.

Marks & Spencer Bordeaux Merlot 2004, £4.99 at M&S 16/20

Chateau de Lussac 2001, £11.99 at Tesco 15/20

Santa Rita Merlot Reserva 2005, £6.99 (20 per cent off in November and December) at Majestic 15/20

Kendal-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Merlot 2002, around £10 from www.everywine.co.uk 17/20