Chartwell, the country home of Sir Winston Churchill, is only a mile or so from the Westerham Brewery, near Sevenoaks in Kent, set up in 2004 to revive brewing in the town after a gap of some 40 years.

The bulldog spirit of Britain’s wartime Prime Minister is commemorated in the name of the brewery’s premium bitter and this week’s feature.

Dark gold in colour with some ruby highlights, it pours with a deep though fairly short-lived head.

The aroma is full, soft and malty, with toffee and orange evident, and some smoky, spicy notes in the background.

The texture is quite rich and creamy with plenty more malt and citrus fruit on the palate, but a balancing bitterness from the hops that gives a refreshing crispness as well. The aftertaste is noticeably dry with hops becoming increasingly prominent leading to a resinous, bitter finish.

Straight-forward, no-nonsense beer, tasty, well-balanced and reassuringly old-fashioned.

As recommended by Jim Helsby, of the York Beer And Wine Shop, Sandringham Street, York