The Henri Maes Brewery in Bruges dates back to 1856, and in 1988 it introduced a beer called Straffe Hendrik (Strong Henry).

In 2002, Maes became part of the Riva group who also owned the Liefman’s Brewery in Oudenaarde, and the production of Straffe Hendrik was moved there with a reduction in strength from its original nine per cent to six per cent.

In 2007, Liefman’s became insolvent (it was later rescued by Moortgat, brewers of Duvel), and the Straffe Hendrik brand returned to its original home, now called Brouwerij De Halve Maan (the Half Moon Brewery) and to its original nine per cent abv.

Got all that? The six per cent Oudenaarde version of the beer was reviewed here many moons ago. This week we meet the new “original” nine pre cent interpretation.

Copper-coloured with the thinnest of heads, the aroma is rich and inviting with banana, toffee and orange all present, and more than a hint of alcohol too.

In the mouth, it manages that peculiarly Belgian trick of being both sweet and dry at the same time! Well okay then, sweetness at the outset becoming progressively drier through the mid and later palate.

There is rich butterscotch, and some pineapple and apricot fruit on top of the soft malty body.

Notes of honey and spice, along with a little woody sourness appear towards the finish, which is long and slightly astringent with a little twist of bitter hops.

A very solid example of the Belgian “tripel” style.

As recommended by Jim Helsby, of the York Beer And Wine Shop, Sandringham Street, York