Gareth Hewitt reports on the build-up to and traditions of Christmas in York's twin town of Mnster

Shoppers take time out for a snack at Mnster's Christmas market

Twin Towns

At Christmas, thoughts often turn to friends far away. It's 50 years since the first partnerships were formed between British and German towns. These twinnings have played a crucial role in the healing process after the devastation of war.

York's partnership with the German city of Mnster began in 1958 and since then many thousands have joined the frequent exchanges.

Mnster is a city of 265,000 and the regional centre of the broad acres of the rich farming region of the Mnsterland.

Emperor Charlemagne made Mnster the residence of the Bishop of the Saxons in about 800AD, but it was not until 1186 that it received its charter and a circuit of walls.

Trading began in the 13th century when it became a prominent member of the Hanseatic League.

Mnster's rich architectural heritage has been meticulously restored following wartime bombing raids, so that it is once again a city of churches, mansions, old merchants' homes and Baroque town houses. Its old walls no longer stand, but on their site is a ring of beautiful gardens.

The Prinzipalmarkt, Mnster's main street, gives the city its character. Overlooked by the elegant openwork spire of St Lambert's Church, here is the 14th century Gothic Town Hall, where in 1648 the Peace of Westphalia, which ended the Thirty Years War, was signed.

The rest of Prinzipalmarkt is lined with grand arcaded restored houses of the 17th century merchants, still used by chic shops. A short walk brings us into the vast Domplatz, dominated by the 13th century Dom (cathedral) of St Paul, the largest church in Westphalia.

Many traditional festivals feature on Mnster's calendar, and one of the most popular is the Christmas market.

Few, if any, exchanges between the people of York and Mnster have taken place at this time of year. So how is our twin town shaping up for Christmas? Germany gave the world many of its Yuletide traditions, not least the Christmas tree. It is believed that Martin Luther introduced the tree lighted with candles. It was German Prince Albert, soon after his marriage to Queen Victoria, who brought the tree to Britain.

The Christmas markets of Germany have an atmosphere of their own.

Mnster's market is held in the narrow streets of the old town. All types of crafts are found here - candles, iron work, wood carvings, Advent wreaths, cribs, jewellery, pottery, textiles, many with a Christmas theme. A background of Christmas music and fairground rides adds to the atmosphere, and the food on offer - gingerbread, chestnuts, sweets, as well as normal German fare, plus the mulled wine - give the scene a cosy, wintry air.

The Weihnachtsman (Santa Claus) is a regular sight in the build up during Advent. There are family reunions, gifts, decorations, carols and parties, and children's pantomime featuring fairy tales, especially from the brothers Grimm. Music is also a major seasonal feature. German carols such as O Tannenbaum and Stille Nacht are among the world's finest, and many have been passed on to other countries.

This all sounds familiar. But is there anything which differs from the British Christmas? There certainly isn't the same frantic rush to send Christmas cards to all and sundry in Germany.

Decorations appear earlier in the home. From the first day of Advent, rooms are decorated, the Advent wreath with its four candles forms a centrepiece, and a Christmas tree appears.

The main family celebration will take place on Christmas Eve (Helige Abend) rather than Christmas Day itself. Presents are exchanged and opened, often after a family has visited evening church service, and then the main Christmas meal will be eaten.

Turkey doesn't play such a prominent role here. Duck is a popular choice, but it's impossible to say what makes up a typical Christmas dinner, because people choose what suits them.

Christmas Day and the 26th (known as Second Christmas Day, not as Boxing Day) are Bank Holidays when all shops are closed, but many factories close for one to two weeks.

Shopping is just as frantic here, but the shops are not open on Sundays. In fact it's only in the weeks before Christmas that they stay open on Saturday afternoons.

For more information about Muenster and York's other twin towns see Twin Towns

Converted for the new archive on 30 June 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.