Jane Gratton, lingerie buyer for York department store Brown's, shows some of the underwear available Picture: Paul Baker

After Germaine Greer revealed her hatred for lingerie, CHRIS TITLEY investigates if truly comfy undies exist

Thirty years after feminists first burned their bras, Germaine Greer has ignited the whole underwear debate again.

The author of The Female Eunuch posed naked in national newspapers this week while declaring her hatred for underwear.

British people spent £1.6 billion on lingerie last year, a quarter more than we did in 1991. Ms Greer, who doesn't wear undergarments, wants to know: "Who wears all this stuff? And why is our culture increasingly obsessed by it?"

The "repellent" girdles of her youth have been replaced by "equally repellent" thongs. Women's underwear is uncomfortable, unnatural and increasingly unnecessary in an age of central heating, she argues. Moreover it is often designed with men in mind.

Even if they sympathise with Ms Greer's arguments, few women will rush to follow her example and cast their lingerie on to the bonfire. But is it possible to stay well-briefed and remain comfortable?

Yes, says Jane Gratton, lingerie buyer for Brown's department store in York. As long as you invest some time in your purchase.

"A lot of it is down to setting aside a good half-an-hour or so, getting yourself measured and having a good try on," she said.

"It's not about going into a shop, buying an item off the peg and taking it home." The same bra size will vary from store to store, she warned.

"We're very much a measurement store. We fit customers by measurement and by sight.

"But we always say to people, the choice is up to you. We can't tell you if you're comfortable."

Lingerie in Brown's includes established ranges like Triumph and Fantasie to modern names.

"Fantasie actually caters for ladies up to a J-cup fitting," Jane said. "It's comfortable, it fits and it looks pretty as well." Fantasie bras start at £20.

The simple message is: what works for you is right. Some of her customers prefer the firmer feel of the Triumph Doreen bra, others like a softer garment.

The best-selling briefs in Brown's are made by Sloggi, retailing at £5.50, she revealed. "They're very well known for being comfortable but they're not what I would call a bedroom item."

The latest thing in comfort is seamless underwear. New knitting technology has been deployed on the Latex Essensis range, about to be promoted with a TV campaign.

Jane said: "It will fit like a glove - it will follow your form, as they say. They expect it to become a very large part of the total underwear market.

You're talking £6.50 for briefs, £11 for a 'soft' bra and a vest top for £15."

The individually-made lingerie by award-winning designer Sandra De Pledge is more expensive, as you might expect.

Sandra, whose business is based in Barker Lane, York, said much of her business was men buying underwear for their wives - but not out of selfish motives.

"And while men might buy it in the first instance as a present, it is the women who come back."

She said nothing was more comfortable than silk. "You don't want to wear anything else when you have worn it.

"Women feel nice in it and they want to feel nice. Silk breathes, whether it is warm or cold."

Her prices range from £40 for silk briefs to £240 for a wrap with lots of detail. She makes to order, and has just taken orders for lingerie in sizes 18 and 20.

It seems there is a lot more to underwear than doesn't meet the eye.

Each practice appears to offer a slightly different package and you need to choose the one that's best suited for your pet.If you have any queries about any consumer matter you can contact York Trading Standards by telephone on 01904 551562, or call at 9 St Leonard's Place or email us at trading.standards@york.gov.uk

11/05/00