DAN BEERGUTSTEIN reels in a fishy tale down Selby way.

COD wars have broken out in pubs south of York, with many out to give each other a good battering over the quality of their food.

A number of boozers in the area are advertising their fishy fare and the Evening Press has decided to wade in and test a few out.

My haddock-tor warned me that eating too many of these dishes - the most popular food in the country - would not be cod for my waistline.

Undeterred, I risked belly-hake, got my skates on, shouted "I shoal succeed" and headed off to eat all fins fishy.

So take a perch and read on as Bar Talk visits a few plaices where they are scrapping for customers...

Rockingham Arms, Towton.

Price: £5.25. Length of fish: 12.5 inches. Chips: 33. Peas: Too many to count.

Boasting 'probably the best fish and chips in the world', landlord Geoff Wilson may not be too far wrong.

The enormous fish was wonderfully battered and the chips were big and chunky. The interesting little village boozer provides a great setting for eating and if the woman behind the bar had been any friendlier she could have had my peas.

There did seem to be quite a wide range of fish-related products on the menu for the more adventurous but I was too engrossed in reading comments in the 'book of affirmation' that I didn't look carefully.

High class fish and chips in a lovely, friendly boozer - look out for the round pool table.

Anchor Inn, Burn Bridge.

Price: Two for £5. Monday evening only. Length of fish: 10 inches but ridiculously wide. Chips: 33 again. Peas: No idea.

Great value-for-money haddock in this real ale riverside pub. Full of regular Monday night devotees. Almost triangular shaped fish, more girth than length, but tender and tasty washed down with a great pint of Abbot Ale, the guest ale this week.

With a wishing well for a urinal and a singing fish behind the bar, the landlord's sense of humour comes across well - look out for the John Smith's beer mat collection on the wall.

Relaxed atmosphere, great food and welcoming environment.

Royal Oak, Hirst Courtney.

Price £5.50. Best on Tuesdays. Fish: 13 inches. Chips: 31. Peas: A lot.

So big that it doesn't even fit on the plate, this impressive fish supper was served on a silver platter - the fish knife also adds to the occasion. Fresh fish and home-made chips make it worth travelling here for, and the John Smith's is as good as it can be. Succulent haddock, and the bread and butter is a bonus.

Great fun can be had with chef and local councillor Steve and the pub is big enough that you can bring your wife and your mistress without fear of getting caught.

Friendly atmosphere, great food, well presented.

IF the above descriptions don't tempt you into pubs, and you are forced to drink at home, Bar Talk can suggest the perfect accompaniment.

FCP Ale (fish, chips and mushy peas) brewed by Daleside Brewery, Harrogate, is officially the 'ultimate fish and chip beer'.

Beer writers and fish friers voted it the best in the National Hop Association competition.

It was specially brewed for the competition and since winning demand for the product has been enormous.

Although receiving orders for 100s of bottles, a spokesman admitted "we don't even have an eggcup full at the moment".

The brewery is now looking to mass produce the beer, which "has a citrus flavour which contrasts nicely with the grease of the fish and chips".

The Bar Talk verdict is a fishy thumbs up to the beer which we received in a pre-production label-less bottle.

YET again Dan Beergutstein has upset someone in the pub trade.

A piece last week about the new non-smoking Golden Fleece has made one pub man, chef Tim Mallinson, very angry indeed.

The pub has been inundated with new punters keen to eat in a smoke-free environment leaving poor Tim with empty fridges.

The unprecedented response of the article has caused such an influx of new, hungry customers that Monday morning was a nightmare for Tim who had to get the stocks up again for a new wave of eaters.

Well, Tim, we are sorry, but it is not our fault your boss has come up with such a good idea.

PICTURE: Left - Eric Lucas enjoys some of his company's award-winning ale, which has been brewed to drink with fish and chip. Picture: Richard Doughty.

Right - Dan Beergustein stuffs his face.