MIKE LAYCOCK headed north for a family-friendly weekend at a hotel in Edinburgh - and found himself journeying back to the beginning of time.

Mention the Millennium Dome and you'll probably think of hype, controversy and expense. But travel to the Scottish capital and you'll find another smaller dome, with a translucent tented roof and built at a fraction of the cost of the one at Greenwich.

And this particular Millennium project, Our Dynamic Earth, has a clear purpose -to tell the story of the planet from volcanoes and earthquakes to the tropical rainforests.

I visited the attraction with my family during a Leisure Break at the Posthouse Edinburgh, a weekend break organised for families. The city may be a couple of hundred miles away from York, but thanks to GNER's super-fast train service we got there in just two and a quarter hours on the Friday evening. A ten-minute taxi ride took us to the hotel, a modern building situated in the suburbs, which has recently undergone a £13 million refurbishment.

The children were given a welcome games pack and, after a pleasant evening meal in the hotel's Oriental restaurant, Sampans, they excitedly explored the hotel, which has its own small indoor play area, and our en suite family bedroom, where facilities included a drinks fridge, TV (with pay movies available) and en suite bath and shower.

The following morning, after stoking up well for the day with a self-service full English breakfast, we headed for Our Dynamic Earth, a £34 million project built on three levels. It is situated near Holyrood Palace and just across the road from a construction site that will eventually be the new Scottish Parliament.

Eleven different galleries concentrate on different aspects of the earth, from the Polar Zone, where a "real iceberg" remains permanently frozen in the middle of the floor for fascinated visitors to touch, to the Restless Earth, where the floor shakes beneath your feet and molten lava appears to pour across the floor towards you, accompanied by sulphurous smells, while a commentary by actor John Hannah explains the process of creation, destruction and movement.

Another impressive exhibition depicts the Tropical Rainforest, dense with undergrowth and full of the sounds of squawking parrots and chattering monkeys.

After lunch in the light and airy top deck of the dome, we decided to see the sights of Edinburgh, from the ancient castle on high to the Georgian squares of the "new town." And what better way than on the top of a Guide Friday open top bus, even if we nearly froze alive.

We finally got off at my daughter's request to see a statue to Bobby Greyfriars, a 19th century dog who was so devoted to his master that he refused to leave his graveside after he died. Then there was just time to visit the Royal Museum of Scotland, a Victorian building in the city centre housing international collections - the children reckoned the huge stuffed elephants were the best exhibit - and also the new Museum of Scotland next door housing Scottish collections telling the country's history. Then we took a bus back to the hotel for a good meal in the Rotisserie.

The following day, there was no need to catch a bus to visit Edinburgh Zoo, Scotland's largest wildlife attraction, because it is literally just over the fence from the hotel. And the Posthouse capitalises on its proximity with a joint initiative called Sunday Funday, enabling families to buy a ticket offering lunch with children's entertainment and also entry to the zoo. There, on a steeply sloping site, we saw animals ranging from fierce tigers and lions to some very cute red pandas. This zoo was the first in the world to exhibit penguins and it now has Europe's largest penguin pool.

After lunch, we took a bus back into the city centre and paid a brief visit to the shops in Princes Street before returning to the station. I was well aware we had seen only a fraction of what this city has to offer, and hope to return before too long.

Fact file

More information: GNER: 0345 484950.

Posthouse Edinburgh, Corstophine Road, Edinburgh. Leisure breaks cost £73 per person for one night's bed and breakfast, and dinner. But up to two children under 16 can stay and eat free when sharing a room with their parents. Tel 0345 404040. Our Dynamic Earth, Holyrood Road: 0131 5507800

Information accurate to the best of our knowledge.