Howard's way

On a raw day I fancied an excursion to certain pleasure, a free and easy tour to the grounds of Castle Howard. Park by The Crown and Cushion in Welburn, walk the few hundred yards down the line of village houses and only half a dozen fields separate you from it all.

You don't see the main house for a while (bar a glimpse). However, it's easy to fixate on the Pyramid and I was encouraged along by the mysteries of its Dalek-like sentries.

On this outward route to the views, don't worry about missing a treasure, all to see are beautifully presented later. Anyway the terrain is pleasant, thorn hedge, scrub and trees, winter crops, tiny valley with tiny stream, a cottage with a tree erupting through its pantiles and then the day's only approximation to exertion in the form of one hundred feet of claggy slope that is St Anne's Hill.

Here, workmen were machete gardening ivy from the broken wall, and I had a Mars Bar moment by the remains of a circular tower.

Now you can stroll on Castle Howard tarmac, a narrow, raised causeway of estate road, half a mile of viewing platform for the wonderful 18th century buildings. Here is what you see. To the west the Needle and the Gatehouse. These soon disappear to be replaced by the great house emerging from its surround of specimen trees. You get its full southern facade, the garden front, with all sorts of lively architectural effects, £35,000 worth in yesteryear money.

A light was on in a 'tower'. Following a line, the South Lake leads to the New (1840) bridge. Ahead, the Mausoleum gradually rises into view, 'as beautiful as anything in England' or so described when new. You pass close to the Pyramid.

We leave these celebrations of historic authority and take a modern version celebrating a hundred years of local government, ie The Centenary Way. It takes us through a nice larch wood to the statue of the Four Faces, four faces in soft sandstone eroded to sunken eyes and gaping mouths. They mark our turn down to Moorhouse Beck, which we crossed earlier. There's more to the stream now, tall reeds with purple plumes one side, the frizzy remnants of fireweed the other, and oaks, especially a huge one by the path, probably as old as the Howards and in fine fettle.

Just 20 yards along from this giant in its prime are three or four relative youngsters at the end of their short, fast lives: silver birches, rotting as they stand in their waterproof diamond-patterned bark, and on them hard tinder fungi, perennials for as long as the trees can manage to stand.

After Castle Howard, Welburn, a mere village, is bound to suffer by comparison, but it's a not unpleasant finish to our short and splendid stroll.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1 From pub, west through village (pass phone box), track on right after last house on right (signed), 50 yards, gate to permissive path to skirt yard, rejoin track.

2 Track turns right, 100 yards, left across field (waymark but path not reinstated) for 100 yards to trees. Right kink to stile/gateway on left and cross stream in shallow valley.

3 Fieldgate, grassy track by hedge on left, stile/fieldgate.

4 Wooden fieldgate/old stile on left at 'corner', track as far as tin barn near house and ruined cottage, one o'clock, stile 11 o'clock uphill to tower (ruin), straight on for 100 yards.

5 Right to private drive, pass Pyramid, track on right (signed Centenary Way) to wood.

6 Gates into wood and left to track. Just before Four Faces sculpture, track/path on right downhill (signed), stile/fieldgate, stream, left at 'y' junction (Centenary Way), stream, gate out of wood, stile/fieldgate and one o'clock on track over hill, gates, right to road back to Welburn (pavement).

FACT FILE

Distance: Three and a half miles.

Time: Two hours.

Start: Welburn, near Castle Howard.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way and permissive path to bypass farmyard.

Date walked: Friday, January 28, 2000.

Road route: One mile north west of the York to Malton A64.

Car parking: Roadside.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: Inn (closed Monday lunch) and village shop.

Tourist and public transport information: Malton TIC 01653 600048.

Map: Based on OS Pathfinder 655, Barton-le-Willows.

Terrain: Low slopes and flat.

Footwear: Boots in winter.

Points of interest: Castle Howard landscape and architecture.

Difficulty: Easy.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. Every effort is made to provide accurate information, but walkers set out at their own risk.

PICTURE:The splendour of Castle Howard looms large

No map available at present