GRAEME ROBERTSON takes a snack at Marvins Coffee Shop

Climb at least 25 steps from street level and you are in for a surprise. A hairdressers to the left and the coffee shop to the right.

We certainly did not expect to find such a large venue. Almost 20 marble-topped tables and comfortable metal framed rattan chairs.

The menu is comprehensive with possibly the largest range of breakfast combinations in the district.

It was lunchtime on a dampish day which may have accounted for the small number of customers. Although most of those present chose to sit in the elevated section we did not feel too exposed in the main area.

Ann asked for a mug of tea which soon arrived on a small tray together with a jug of fresh milk. Clearly our choices were being cooked to order so there was a delay before the food arrived. Ann spotted one of her favourites and asked for the tuna melt. This was a brown open bap with tuna and toasted cheese. Garnished with shredded lettuce, tomato, cucumber and a slice of orange there were also some beautifully crisp and dry chips on the plate.

Ann was delighted with her choice but could not manage all the chips. Generously I was allowed to sample them.

My selection was one of the specials, cream of cauliflower soup and a sandwich in brown bread (£2.85). Not being too fond of cauliflower I was delighted to find the soup very tasty. The sandwiches, ham in my case, also scored highly.

Many specials are advertised on boards. Such attractions as hot chocolate and muffin (£2), toffee muffin (65p) and a bap with either bacon or egg (£1.10) caught my eye.

There should be something for every taste in this venue. All you need is the puff to climb the stairs.

Restaurant: Marvins Coffee Shop

Address: 65 York Road, Acomb, York

Telephone: 01904 786006

Reviewed: 17/10/98