Harkers Cafe Bar is built on the site of the Praetorian Gate - the principal entry into the City of York, while under Roman occupation.

The impressive interior of the building in St Helen's Square, supported by Romanesque-type columns, is where lunchtine diners can take refuge from the hustle and bustle of the streets of York.

Taped background music featured current megabands The Corrs and Texas, which was not too invasive. It reflected the relaxed surroundings and decor, where courteous staff welcomed customers with a smile.

Diners can call in any time of the day, eat a traditional breakfast for £5.95, have a lite bite/sandwich, a substantial main course, or afternoon tea. In the evening, they can while away the happy hour, drinking jugs of Pimms or Sangria.

Taking advantage of the sunny weather, my guest and I opted for a table near the window - promising not to talk shop over lunch - which we stuck to for a while ...

In addition to the varied menu, which offers particular chef's favourites, such as loin of pork in stilton, special daily dishes are featured on a blackboard suspended from the ceiling.

I chose the Tricolour Salad from the lite bites and sandwiches menu as a starter. However, the sliced tomatoes and mozzarella topped with basil and dressed in olive oil were bland, only serving to exercise my jaw.

My guest skipped the entree, preferring to tuck into the Southern Chicken Open Sandwich as a main course (£5.95). Marinated in Cajun spices and olive oil, pan-fired, it was served on toasted granary bread, topped with guacamole, and a mixed salad. "The toast was overdone, but the chicken had a piquant flavour," he said.

My main course, chosen from the blackboard, was excellent. It was my first stab at monkfish, which was served with sultanas and lemon on a bed of salad and fried vegetables (£9.95). The fish was a pleasant surprise as I found it really meaty - full of texture and taste.

Washed down with a couple of glasses of house wine, Australian chardonnay - at £2.20 per 175ml glass - the monkfish went down a treat. For pudding, I devoured the traditional rum and raisin sponge, whereas my guest went for the Normandy apple pie, which he seemed to enjoy.

All in all, a relaxing and pleasant experience for £34.45.

Restaurant: Harkers Cafe Bar

Address: St Helen's Square, York

Telephone: 01904 672795

Reviewed: June 22, 1999