Chris Titley enjoys a meal that lives us to his high expectations

Many names are given to those who love eating. Some are simply known as foodies, which begs the question: why aren't fans of pub grub referred to as grubbies?

But whatever they like to be called, be it gastronome or gourmet, bon viveur or epicure, tell them: make your way to the Rose and Crown, Sutton-on-the-Forest. You won't be disappointed.

We were hoping for a treat as we headed over to the restaurant one Thursday evening. The pre-publicity was encouraging. From that we knew that the Rose and Crown reopened in December after a refurbishment which included the installation of a new kitchen, and a redesigned bar and restaurant.

Moreover, the reputations behind the project have the pedigree to open saliva glands at 500 yards. Head chef Andrew Jones, a pupil of Michelin star-holding chef Jeff Bland, previously worked at the Worsley Arms - another inn with a deliciously good name - alongside the man who is now the Rose & Crown's general manager, Euan Rodger. Co-owner Ralph Magee, who spent many years importing continental delicacies for Harrods and other stores, completes the taste triumvirate.

Talking of good taste, it begins as soon as you walk inside. Facing you is a bar of contemporary design in dark wood, with wooden tables dotted around it. Here we were given a cordial welcome along with our menus and drinks.

Specials are chalked up on the boards, and these descriptions alone were enough to make us dive into the nibbles in anticipation. However, we were choosing from the set menu, which offered seemingly good value at three courses for £17.50.

Soon after taking our orders, Mr Rodger ushered us into the dining room. The decor here is understated but stylish. Tables are covered in plain white tablecloths and surrounded by carefully mismatched chairs upholstered in green or red. Each table boasted a single candle in round or square wooden holder and a fresh flower.

At one end, a real fire blazed away. Checked blinds at the windows and a wire basket full of lemons were finishing touches.

After admiring our surroundings, it was time to admire our starters. These arrived on wide, white plates. Jo's choice was a salad of wild mushrooms, black pudding and apple wafers. She was delighted by the fulsome flavours of the mushrooms but initially felt the black pudding was a little crispy. Yet after polishing the lot off, she declared her early misgivings unjustified.

My ballotine of fresh salmon, ratatouille dressing, black olives and basil oil was a delicate and delicious balance of taste and texture. It looked like a work of art. Nonetheless I demolished it like the philistine I am.

It was becoming clear that the Rose and Crown offered something special to the discerning diner. This was confirmed by our main courses.

Like the starters, the presentation was superb. Jo's char-grilled pork loin, shallot mash and parsnip puree were served in layers, with an exquisite side serving of Yorkshire honey and parsnip crisps. Pork is often let down by overcooking; Jo said she had never enjoyed the meat more.

I wasn't listening however, being too absorbed in my main order, haunch of venison, fondant potato, wild mushrooms, garlic puy lentils and pancetta. The meat melted under the knife into moist, tender pieces, the sauce was tangy, the mushrooms woody, the potato yummy.

We thought the meal couldn't get any better. Then two slices of dark chocolate tart with fresh raspberries in lime arrived. Heavenly.

Finishing off with two coffees, rather bitter for our tastes, and including three drinks, the bill came to £44.95. For the standard of meal, this represented excellent value.

The bad news, however, is that this set menu was a special offer for Wednesday and Thursday nights in January and February only. Mr Rodger is now working on a new set menu, but the price is likely to be nearer the £20 mark.

In conclusion, the service was friendly and discreet, the food marvellous. This was one grubbie who went home happy.

Restaurant: The Rose and Crown

Address: Main Street, Sutton-on-the-Forest, York

Telephone: (01347) 811333

Reviewed: March 4th 2000

Food: ***** equisite

Value: ****worth the extra

Service: ****friendly and discreet

Ambience: ****contemporary rustic

PICTURE:The Rose and Crown at Sutton-on-the-Forest