SIMON RITCHIE finds the food at a haunted hotel out of this world

We started to look for the female phantom as soon as we entered the grounds of the 19th century Parsonage Country House Hotel at Escrick.

"I don't know why you're bothering to look," I told my partner Jayne, "The ghost can only be seen by men!"

I'd come across the story of the female phantom with a passion for males while researching the paranormal in North Yorkshire.

The spectre, who wears Victorian costume, has apparently been seen several times by the hotel's male night porter and male guests.

For some strange reason the mysterious ghost leaves the ladies well alone! Jayne was undeterred by the revelation and continued to look for the spook as we entered the elegant former vicarage.

How we got to dine at Escrick was quite spooky in itself. We never had any real reason to discuss the Parsonage before until it was suggested to us as a possible venue for our wedding.

The next day, quite by coincidence, the Eating Out editor asked if we would dine there as head chef Kenny Noble and his team had just been recommended for a second prestigious AA rosette for quality cooking.

On entering the hotel, which was designed by architect FC Penrose - the man behind nearby St Mary's Church - we were ushered into the cocktail bar, had a couple of drinks, nibbled on aperitifs and perused the table d'hote menu (£19.50 for three courses, £16.50 for two).

Original architectural drawings of the Parsonage adorn the walls as does a pair of 19th century women's stockings (the ghost's perhaps) which were cemented into the walls of one of the upstairs' rooms.

We soon joined the six other diners in the restaurant, most of whom I guessed were actually staying at the hotel.

Before our starters arrived we were offered the choice of two freshly-baked breads - a really nice touch.

I had a couple of slices of the celery and apple together with roasted garlic cloves, while Jayne picked the cheese and mustard bread. Both were delicious and were a pointer to many good things to come.

For starters I was rather adventurous and went for the fillet of ostrich which came with a parsnip and garlic mash with pearl barley topping and a mustard rosti.

I'd only ever eaten ostrich once before and that was a small free sample at the Great Yorkshire Show some years ago when the bird was first making an appearance at the British dinner table. My ostrich at the Parsonage was delicious. It was a bit like beef, but leaner and less chewy. The mash, well, I could have eaten it all night. It was superb.

Jayne, a vegetarian, went for the leek and potato soup which came with little love hearts floating on top. Jayne rarely finishes a full bowl of soup but on this occasion she polished the lot off.

For my main course I chose the breast of chicken on a bed of roasted salsify, with vegetable ribbons and a green herb and mustard sauce. This was accompanied by roast parsnips and a selection of fresh vegetables. My dish was gorgeous. The chicken just melted in the mouth and the sauce complimented it so well.

Jayne chose the only vegetarian option that night - beef tomatoes filled with sauted vegetables (courgettes, carrots, parsnips and onions) on a lemon confit. This also came with a selection of fresh vegetables. She was as impressed as I was.

Not only must head chef Kenny Noble be praised on the quality of the food but also on the presentation. They were like works of art. So much flair and imagination went into each dish.

After overindulging at Christmas and New Year I was determined to skip dessert, but my sweet tooth got the better of me and I had to have the sticky toffee pudding with a pecan toffee sauce. It was heavenly.

With a cup of coffee, a couple of drinks and a bottle of sparkling water the meal came to a very reasonable £44.

We never did see the ghost but we left the Parsonage full of high spirits and clutching the hotel's wedding brochure!

Restaurant: The Parsonage Country House Hotel

Address: Main Street, Escrick

Telephone: 01904 728111

Reviewed: January 9, 1999

Food: Superb

Value: Very reasonable

Service: Friendly and efficient

Ambience: Elegant, upmarket eatery