Mike Laycock enjoyed the spicy taste of the deep south

Having reached the big 40, I reckoned I'd probably tasted most meats. But I still find the occasional culinary surprise lurking in the restaurant menu. And "Swamp and Turf" certainly came into that category recently when I took my family to Old Orleans in York's Low Ousegate.

It was described on the menu as one of a selection of classic steak dishes, perfected using cooking techniques from Cajun cuisine. There was nothing particularly unusual about the stir-fried vegetables, golden fries, or the 8oz rump steak... but the accompanying "4oz Cajun spiced alligator steak" caught my attention. As did the challenge: "We've even gone so far as to add alligator to our selection. Try it if you dare."

There was no ducking this dare, despite the hefty £12.75 price tag.

The restaurant claims to bring to diners the most sumptuous and tempting fare from New Orleans, influenced by Creole, Cajun, West Indian, German and Italian cultures.

The atmosphere when we entered, with the Rolling Stones playing over the speakers, seemed more York pub than Mississippi bar, despite various deep south props, including an alligator suit which fascinated my daughter.

But we were quickly shown to our non-smoking table by friendly staff, and there was no complaining about the wide menu choice, particularly if you like your food hot and spicy.

I decided on a starter of mushrooms topped with a Creole sauce, melted cheese and spring onions, and served on ciabatta bread, for £3.95, while my wife and son both asked for deep-fried potato skins filled with bacon and melted cheese for £3.75. My daughter wanted a jacket potato with butter for £1.65. They were all filling starters as well as tasty, and, to be honest, we began to wonder if we would manage all our main courses.

So how was the alligator? Well, the tasty Cajun spices tended to obscure whatever flavour it originally had, but in texture it seemed rather like very tender pork or chicken.

But I was struggling to eat it all, and my son was only able to manage a fraction of his half-pound all-American burger, served with bacon and melted cheese in a bap garnished by mayonnaise, lettuce and beef tomato, good as it tasted. We decided the rather steep bill could have been cut by missing out altogether on the starter, or perhaps by choosing from the Light Bites section of snacks on the menu.

My wife's Louisiana Hot Pepper Chicken, priced at £9.95, topped with hot pepper sauce and served with rice and stir-fried vegetables, probably won our prize for tastiest dish of the day, although she was also pushed to finish it. My daughter chose cheese and tomato pizza from the Young Orleans menu for £4.25 including ice cream and a coke.

The dessert menu tempted us with dishes such as Mississippi Mud Pie: a tower of mocha ice cream on a Oreo biscuit base and topped with pecan nuts and milk chocolate curls, served in a pool of chocolate sauce with mini-marshmallows. I would have been tempted but I had no room left and the bill was high enough already. I decided to pay up and leave while the going was good.

Restaurant: Old Orleans

Address: Low Ousegate,York

Telephone: 01904 620158

Reviewed: February 21 2000

Food: **** very tasty

Value: ** bit expensive

Service: **** good

Ambience: *** quiet