CHRIS TITLEY finds an Indian restaurant where inflation seems to have stood still.

Think of the Indian Ocean, and you probably conjure up images of a sun-soaked isle in the Maldives or the Seychelles.

Unless, that is, you are a curry fan. In which case you might picture the Indian Ocean Ultimate Tandoori Restaurant in Acomb.

What the balti house lacks in bikini-clad women, sandy beaches and palm trees, it makes up for with pints of bitter on tap and a large menu of spicy dishes.

We visited on a night when it seemed the Indian Ocean was falling from the sky. Tropical it was not.

But the welcome was very warm. As soon as we made our way to the door, it was held open for us by a smiling member of staff.

After shedding our coats, scarves, gloves, hats and thermal over-trousers, we were ready to begin.

Things didn't get off to the ideal start: the restaurant had no mineral water, so Jo had to settle for a tonic water instead. But my request for a pint of bitter was successful, thank heavens.

It is at this point that I would usually insert a brief description of the decor. But here I am in some difficulty.

The Indian Ocean's interior is like Biff from Emmerdale. Dim. Turn the lighting up a notch and it would be murky.

Fortunately I like dark places, and so found the atmosphere very relaxing. From the candle-light on the table I am able to tell you that the tablecloths are blue. I think.

Luckily there was enough illumination to make out the menu. Munching on papadams and pickles - is there any better way to start a meal? - we perused and selected.

I started with king prawn butterfly (£3.40) and Jo opted for vegetable samosas (£1.95).

We did not have long to wait. My prawn arrived, fully living up to its king-sized billing. Deep fried and accompanied by a fainthearted salad, it was surprisingly bland.

Jo was more satisfied. Her two, good-sized samosas were crispy, not greasy, and filled with chunky vegetables.

The main course was timed to perfection. My order, Indian Ocean Special Biryani (£8.95), came in two dishes: a vegetable curry on the hotplate and the meat and saffron rice on the side.

It was, as Des Lynam might say, a meal of two halves. The curry was the better half by a whisker, thanks to a delicious, fruity sauce.

The tandoori meat was let down by the odd slightly tough piece, although the chicken and prawns were spot on. This was definitely at the mild end of the curry spectrum, but with the almonds and sultanas flavoursome nonetheless.

Jo's lamb pasanda (£6.95) was, she said simply, "yum". Initially alarmed by its scarlet, raspberry mousse appearance, she was soon making indecipherable noises of appreciation.

The eventual verdict: it was the tastiest, most tender lamb she has ever tasted in an Indian restaurant.

For puddings, read ice cream. From the standard curry house selection, I went for a banana and strawberry creation and Jo played safe with vanilla (£2.50 each). Both spun around the dish like a gyroscope at the merest touch of a spoon, affording great after dinner entertainment.

A complimentary liquor, described reasonably accurately as "like Bailey's", was offered and accepted: a nice finishing touch.

The meal was a definite success. And the Indian Ocean is clearly a local favourite: several tables were filled in spite of the miserable midweek weather and the fact that Des Barnes was gasping his last on Coronation Street that night.

The Acomb Green restaurant was last featured on these pages five years ago. Then it was up against a dozen or so other Indian restaurants. But my colleague Martin Lacy found it well up to scratch. Today, the amount of competition has doubled. And I'm pleased to report the Indian Ocean is still holding its own. It's not cheap but offers good value for money. How about this for a telling comparison: Martin spent £37.15 on a meal for two with two pints of lager and a couple of coffees in 1993. Our bill, including two pints of bitter and two tonic waters, came to £37.60.

That is a rate of inflation that would make Chancellor Gordon Brown salivate. But then, his mouth would already be watering at the prospect of food fresh from the Indian Ocean.

Restaurant:The Indian Ocean Ultimate Tandoori Restaurant

Address:37 The Green, Acomb, York

Telephone:01904 789816/789826

Reviewed:23/11/98

Food:Plentiful and flavoursome

Value:Getting better every year

Service:Prompt, friendly but unobtrusive

Ambience:Dark and cosy

PICTURE:Indian Ocean Ultimate Tandoori Restaurant, Acomb: Still yummy after all these years