GEORGE WILKINSON sets off in search of dramatic views and naked calendar girls
It drizzled every hour and every minute of today's walk but I still enjoyed it, which says much for the route's definition, qualities and attractions. The opening mile is flat track warm-up. The midweek rumble of quarry lorries was a downer, but more than offset by the drama to the south-east, of ground rising high and steep to a skyline of swirling cloud punctuated by rocks and crags, sharp obelisk and stark cross.
I was distracted. We are approaching the village of Rylstone, home to the famous and delightful naked Women's Institute calendar girls. Unfortunately, with the inclement weather, the fantasy of foxy local fauna out in boots and rucksacks wasn't realised.
Anyway, the vision of the cross high on the hills banished temptations of the flesh and I bypassed the village, switched concern to the weather, and decided to get up there before the clouds closed down. I hurried on into the Barden Moor Open Access Area, grabbed a snack in the semi-shelter of a little circular larch wood, kept a ruin at a romantic distance and finally made the top. It had been a long 600-foot ascent but all on steady track.
The next two miles are at about 1500 feet, right along the precipitous edge, but protected by a gritstone wall. You pick your way from rock to rock by way of peat, heather, rushes, moss and boulders, heading for the Rylstone Cross.
Stand by the cross for vertigo and views west. You see a spike a mile away, it's the next landmark and as you make your way there, the vista expands in all directions. The War Memorial Obelisk stands about 20 foot high on an outcrop of gritstone and is brilliantly situated.
I can only imagine the clear day view to the west, mine was restricted to seven or eight miles of rolling pasture and villages in the valley, and the quarry which is the only blot on the landscape. The other way, I could clearly see the wind turbines spinning near Bolton Abbey.
Another half-mile along the top wall and we reach a ladderstile and the descent, which is all in a sunken path and takes you past the crag-line and steeply down into some interesting rough and grooved terrain. I reached Cracoe just in time, Rylstone Fell was smothered in grey, an hour later and I would have seen nothing. My day ended nicely. A visit to The Farm Shop in Cracoe brought tasty titbits, the promise of more parking, and an opportunity to buy that calendar. Worth a good cause fiver for April's 'tender blooms', the 'darling buds' of May, and June with 'not a stitch'.
DIRECTIONS
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
1. Downhill from lay-by into Cracoe or through village from Farm Shop car park to tarmac lane and small stone bridge over stream and walled track (signed Rylstone).
2. At right-hand bend leave track, gate/fieldgate into field, fieldgate to back lane by Rylstone Church and 50 yards, fieldgate on left to track (signed, 2 gates/fieldgates). Stay on track.
3. Gate/fieldgate and left at track junction (three-way fingerpost), right-hand bend then gate/fieldgate on left and track uphill (access notice board, signed Barden Moor). Also into CSS Open Access Area and visit ruined tower if you wish - ladderstile on right above conifer plantation you pass on way up).
4. Fieldgate to moor, track levels out, 100 yards before stone wall fork left to new fieldgate in wall (waymarked with blue painted posts). Left to path by wall, passing Cross, obelisk and crags.
5. Ladderstile/ancient fieldgate on left after crags. Downhill on sunken path, pass crags on left then path curves left below them (ignore a right fork, path briefly faint). Multiple choice of paths as you get further downhill but head for fenced sheep pens by wall and fieldgate to walled track.
6. First left in Cracoe to tarmac lane. Ignore turns (stream appears to left), go to main road.
FACT FILE
Distance: Six and a half miles.
Time: Three hours.
Start: Cracoe
Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way, on open access area paths, and through a CSS open access area. Barden Moor sometimes closed for grouse shooting days but not this winter.
Date walked: Friday, November 5.
Road route: Cracoe is between Grassington and Skipton on the B6265.
Car parking: Lay-by on hill south of Cracoe (verge then path) or by kind permission, at The Farm Shop towards northern end of Cracoe - 50p for non-customers (please pay in shop).
Lavatories: None.
Refreshments: Pub and caf in Cracoe.
Tourist and public transport information: Grassington TIC 01756 752774.
Map: Based on Outdoor Leisure 2, Yorkshire Dales southern and western area.
Terrain: High ground.
Footwear: Walking boots.
Points of interest: Fine views. Open access.
Difficulty: Moderate. Watch weather re descent.
Dogs: Dogs NOT allowed on Access Area Moor, between direction numbers 4 and 5.
Weather forecast: Check Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418
Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.
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