The Blue Bicycle - Business Lunch

In a city where the push-bike rules OK, it seemed fitting The Blue Bicycle should feature in the first Business Lunch review.

Situated on Fossgate, York, almost astride a bridge over the River Foss, it's only a stone's throw from the Evening Press office.

Yes, I know it's expensive, but ideal for talking profit over pudding, celebrating a deal, or engaging chatter and comradeship with a business contact/ friend on a sunny Friday afternoon.

The restaurant, previously known as the Cockatoo Creperie, is owned by David Rose and Sarah Brownbridge, who never need to advertise, as business for the 56-seater establishment is drummed up by word of mouth.

The dining room is unpretentious, warm, woody and welcoming with pleasant, well-mannered and attentive staff. I picked a table next to a window where views over the bridge and Clifford's Tower beckoned.

It was refreshing to indulge in social intercourse, while city workers, shoppers and tourists walking by on a warm spring day.

We both opted for something simple for a starter - roasted tomato soup at £3.65 - which I thought was disappointingly bland and tasted more like minestrone.

Nevertheless, a Bloody Good White Californian wine - Cal del Solo 1997 - at £11.50, and 13.5 per cent alcohol by volume, was agreed on.

Palatable, and fruity, with a slight hint of tangerine, it was just what the doctor ordered.

Main courses range from around £5 to £15.50. My guest opted for Moules marinieres - fresh mussels cooked in wine, garlic and cream (£6.50) - about which he waxed lyrical and attacked with great gusto.

I decided on something more substantial - calves liver, pan-seared thin slices served tender and pink on a bed of parsnip and potato mash, with red onion marmalade and a scattering of home cured bacon bites (£13.50).

Absolutely delicious, and as good as the description, the meat bearing no resemblance to the hard leather pieces punctuated with tubes I remember from school dinners.

For afters I couldn't resist the sticky toffee pudding while my guest sampled three flavours of ice cream.

The bill came to around £40, which is expensive for lunch - let alone evening - but the memory will linger for some considerable time.

The Blue Bicycle - more of an experience than just a meal - could be the bread stick other eating establishments are judged by.

My only criticism was the drowning out of the compilation music tape due to incessant banging in the cellar. My enjoyment of Nina Simone and Simply Red were totally destroyed, but, as Mr Rose told me, the cellar is undergoing an extension, and is due to open in six weeks.

Meanwhile, the restaurant is awaiting planning permission for balconies overlooking the Foss.

Mr Rose, who started off his working career at his father's electrical contractors business, said: "The initial idea was to turn the basement into a shellfish bar, but it wasn't feasible. "We have the demand in the restaurant, which we're not able to satisfy, so by extending downstairs, it will alleviate the problem. Instead of turning away customers, they can spend some time in the bar waiting for a table."

Restaurant: The Blue Bicycle

Address: Fossgate, York

Reviewed:

25 May, 1999