MIKE LAYCOCK visited a village pub for lunch as staff faced the mother of all days behind the carvery

It has become a big Mothering Sunday tradition for sons and daughters: take mum out to lunch. So when I was asked to try out the lunchtime carvery at the Wenlock Arms at Wheldrake last Sunday, when my parents happened to be paying me a visit, I invited them along as well.

Sensing it might be busy, I took the precaution of ringing beforehand to book a table. It was a wise move. They were, said the landlord, fully booked on what was their busiest day of the year. Sensing my disappointment, he said they probably could manage one more booking ... if I didn't mind waiting until 3.15.

I reckoned we'd survive the wait and booked the table. I was keen to go to the Wenlock, already knowing something of this village pub.

The Wenlock Arms played a key role in a massive fund-raising drive in Wheldrake last autumn for the Anthony Nolan Bone Marrow Trust. The campaign, sparked by the plight of a villager who needed a marrow transplant to beat her leukaemia, collected some £13,000. The Wenlock's credentials as a pub at the heart of its community were therefore impeccable.

But how would it cope with diners' demands on this most testing of days? As we drove through heavy rain into Wheldrake, I feared we might face a long wait as others finished their meals.

We arrived early, parked easily and were then invited to have a drink in the bar while our table was prepared. Bang on 3.15, we were invited to take our seats. So far, so good.

The menu was a special one for Mother's Day, but the carvery is open every Sunday. We scanned a range of starters, from home-made pork and chicken terrine to mushrooms in garlic sauce, for about £3 per person. But one glance at the carvery and we decided not to bother: it looked like a full meal in itself, especially for anyone choosing chicken.

My wife, children and mother went to the counter and did just that. It was half a large roast chicken. The children shared a portion and there was plenty for each of them. My mother couldn't finish hers. To accompany the meats was a choice of some half a dozen vegetables, including leeks, carrots and mushrooms, as well as roast and mashed potato.

I asked for roast honey glazed gammon and had a couple of good thick slices. Tasty, lean and highly recommended. My father thoroughly enjoyed his fillet of salmon en croute, finishing off the whole plate. All the main dishes from the carvery were £5.95, including all extras.

So, said the waiter, would we like a dessert? We weren't certain we could manage it. But then we scanned the menu and somehow found the room. Ice cream for the children, shared apple and blackberry crumble for my wife and me, while my parents shared a sherry and raspberry trifle.

The whole bill, including drinks, came to just over £40, which I reckoned wasn't at all bad for a party of six. And my mother had thoroughly enjoyed herself. Which was really what it was all about last Sunday.Wenlock Arms, Main Street, Wheldrake. Tel 01904 448240.

Restaurant: Wenlock Arms

Address: Main Street,Wheldrake

Telephone: 01904 448240

Reviewed: March 4th 2000

Food: **** Very good

Value: ***Not bad

Service: ***Helpful

Ambience: ***Village pub

Disabled Access: Yes

PICTURE: The Wenlock Arms in Wheldrake