Just after my first Indian meal the whole of Birmingham gulped. Their water bills rocketed. I sauntered into a smart restaurant after finishing work one summer's evening, sat down, looked at the menu and my eyes lit upon Chicken Vindaloo. I just liked the sound of Vindaloo so I ordered it.

One and a half hours later and after four carafes of iced water I finished it. My mouth was on fire for two days afterwards. Luckily the restaurant was empty when I walked in and only had a trickle of customers before I left so no one, I hoped, had spotted the tall waterholic in the corner sweating cobs pretending he knew all about Indian cuisine.

That was 30 years ago and strangely enough it didn't quench my thirst for Indian meals and I've had many since then - but never as hot as that vindaloo.

So I was looking forward with relish to my meal at The Garden Of India in Fawcett Street, York, this week.

It is but a poppadom frisbee throw away from the Barbican Centre so you could find yourself dining with celebs.

Manager Shah Miah told me casually: "Oh yes we get a lot of stars in here. People like Chubby Brown, George Best, Rodney Marsh, snooker star Jimmy White, people like that..."

It is also popular with York University students who come down in droves to bump up their student loans and get away from baked beans.

The Garden was refurbished about a month ago: new designer-inspired frontage, new carpets and wallpaper. Very smart it looks to as the mini-chandeliers gleam on the ceiling.

So what about the food?

Well the food is very much as I remember it when the new owners started to run it in 1992. It is good, not great, but certainly wholesome and superb value for money.

"It is very much a family business," explain Mr Miah. "We pride ourselves on seeing the same customers on a regular basis. Customers keep coming back because we are not mean with our portions." And that Shah is true!

The range of starters is extensive, 21 in all, and I chose Prawn On Puree. Spicy, but not too hot (remember Birmingham?) prawns in a curry sauce on a light and fluffy naan-like circle of dough. It was very tasty.

Vivienne, my vivacious veggie, didn't mess about: she ordered the all-in-one Special Vegetarian Thali (£9.50) and was glad she did. Her starter was two light, succulent onion bhaji with Vegetable Kori (curry) with dinky little metal dishes of lentils and chickpeas with pilau rice and a huge naan bread.

I ordered Tandoori Chicken Massala, never a native Indian dish but created years ago in London, it is now the nation's most popular takeaway food. I should have asked for the livid red curry sauce to be just a smidgen hotter, but that was my fault. The chicken slivers were toothsome and tender.

Neither of us finished our meals, such are the portions, so neither could manage a dessert.

I know for a fact that most Indian chefs would rather not use food colouring but over the years they have had so many complaints from customers who will not settle for anything but bright red curries which they regard as the 'real thing'.

We ordered and enjoyed a bottle of Indian white wine, Veena at £8.50, which was very different and almost spicy in a strange sort of way.

We had chosen to dine at about half past seven last Saturday evening to avoid the crowds and by the time we left it was, indeed, beginning to fill up.

Our meal for two, including wine, came to just £26.90 so it would have been a steal had we forgone 'the slurp'.

A good thing about The Garden Of India is its location, so close to the Barbican Centre you can either enjoy a pre or post-show meal. It opens from 6pm to midnight seven days a week including Bank Holidays.

There is no problem with access for the less-abled and, even better, the toilets are all on the ground floor.

The Garden Of India,

5 Fawcett Street, York. Tel. 645679