MARTIN LACY offers a second route through York for walkers missing their regular strolls in the countryside thanks to the foot and mouth crisis.

IT'S always a good idea when out walking to look where your feet are going, but on this walk I would suggest you keep at least one eye trained skywards - or at least above shoulder height. For this stroll through the heart of historical York takes in nearly a thousand years of the city's history - and much of the evidence that remains can be found from head height up to the roofline.

You can take in the whole of the splendours of Georgian treasures such as the Judges' Lodgings and York Mansion House, but keep your eyes peeled once you reach Stonegate - for history is all above you in this street, which takes its name from the fact that the stones to build York Minster were dragged up here from the river to the cathedral.

Watch out for splendid windows and house fronts above the glittering shops, plus books and devils which advertise a street that was once the home of York's booksellers and (in Coffee Yard) the birthplace of the city's printing industry.

Also in Coffee Yard is the splendid Barley Hall, a fine medieval building protected from the ravages of time because it was hidden behind much later buildings.

Duck your head as you leave Coffee Yard and enter Grape Lane. Despite its name, this street of elegant shops has nothing to do with fruit. 'Grape' was originally 'grope' and in medieval times the addition of an Anglo-Saxon four letter word made the occupation of the streets' inhabitants abundantly clear. This was the home of York's medieval 'stews' or brothels and well-tolerated they were, not least because the properties were owned by the Church!

Talking of churches, when you have walked down Petergate (look up for the fire marks!) and crossed into King's Square, remember that this small space, now home to a variety of buskers, was once the site of Holy Trinity Church (also known as Christ Church), demolished in 1937 to make way for... a busking platform?

What can I say about Shambles? I marvel every time I walk down there. I also rejoice in Fossgate - but you'll need to look up to enjoy its real beauty. And Fossgate is home to two of York's finest buildings: that wonderful medieval guildhall, the Merchant Adventurers' Hall, and the Blue Bell Inn, one of York's best preserved and welcoming public houses (big brewers please note).

I suspect many walkers won't get beyond the delights of Clifford's Tower and the nearby Castle Museum, but do persevere and cross the river. At the entrance to Skeldergate is Baile Hill, once home to York's second castle, while Cromwell Road is an ancient thoroughfare that dates back at least to Roman times. Along this rise overlooking the Ouse were some of Roman York's finest civilian villas, while in the 17th century the infamous Duke of Buckingham escaped enemies at court by building a splendid palace and gardens somewhere close to the modern Buckingham Street.

Trinity Lane is now mainly modern housing but don't miss Jacob's Well, a wonderful example of medieval building, and admire the fine Georgian town houses of Micklegate.

Fact file

Parking: There are pay-and-display car parks close to the walk at Esplanade, Marygate, Bootham, Shambles and Haymarket plus private (pay) parks in Piccadilly and Tanner Row.

Buses: Several York bus services pass through or close to the route. Askham Bar, Grimston Bar and Rawcliffe Bar Park & Ride drop off at several points around the route.

Refreshment: Spoilt for choice with pubs, cafes and tea rooms in abundance.

Dogs: If you want to bring your dog, it must be kept on a lead at all times and you must carry a pooper-scooper.

Directions

1 Start from the gates of the Museum Gardens and head across the road to Lendal, opposite, and walk down to St Helen's Square where you should turn left and cross the square to Stonegate. Head down to Stonegate towards the Minster.

2 Halfway along the right-hand side of the street (and recognised by a small red figure of the Devil perched on the wall) is Coffee Yard. Walk down the tiny alley, past Barley Hall, and turn left into Grape Lane. At the end of Grape Lane turn right into Petergate and head down to King's Square and into Shambles.

3 At the end of Shambles, turn left and then, within a few yards, right into Fossgate. Head down Fossgate, cross the river and turn right into Merchangate and head for Piccadilly.

4 Turn right into Piccadilly, recross the River Foss and turn left on to the riverside walk that runs alongside the Coppergate development. At the end of the walk, head diagonally across the car park, past Clifford's Tower and cross Tower Street for Skeldergate Bridge.

5 Once you have crossed the River Ouse, turn right into Skeldergate and then bear left up Cromwell Road.

6 At the end of Cromwell Road, at the 'five lane ends' take the second left, Trinity Lane and at the end of the lane turn right into Micklegate. Head down the hill. At the foot of the hill by St Martin's Church, turn left into George Hudson Street. Continue through Rougier Street towards the Bar Walls and then turn right to Lendal Bridge and back to your start point.

Click here to view a map of the walk