Head west

WHEN I told my friends I was whisking my girlfriend away to Halifax for a Valentine's weekend of love and romance, they laughed. Deep down, I could see why.

I mean, come on, Halifax. What could two young people possibly enjoy about a trip to this West Yorkshire mill town?

At times I was tempted to cancel the trip, take her somewhere a little more romantic, or at the very least, somewhere a little less horrible.

I could not have been any more wrong. We might as well have been in Paris or Rome, such was the beauty and magnificence of our trip.

We arrived at the White Swan Hotel, on Princess Street, Halifax around 6pm on the Friday night. Apart from a bit of trouble parking (it is not the hotel, but my driving that is to blame for that), things were looking good.

The impressive Victorian hotel had a grand entrance and once we were through it, the unbelievably helpful staff took us to our impressive room. The green and yellow decor was perhaps a little too bold for me, but the large bed and immaculate white and silver bathroom more than made up for it.

Dinner, too, was a remarkably good feed, but the delights of the Halifax night-life were bypassed on night one.

A magnificent hotel breakfast, all fruits, cereals, toast and black pudding, was complemented by the helpful and amiable staff.

This continued throughout our stay and was definitely a bonus; the extra smiles and platitudes don't cost much but leave a lasting impression.

And now for Halifax itself.

Piece Hall, an ancient shopping centre with its huge columns, was magnificent in bright sunshine with the backdrop of the rolling Calderdale hills adding to the beauty of the scene. A bustling marketplace filled the square, and a variety of curio stores and little gift shops make Halifax a place to which we may even return.

The town hall was also an impressive and ancient structure. Halifax, surprisingly, had quite an array of picturesque buildings. But the range of activities was limited. The popular children's Eureka museum held little interest for us, so by lunchtime, and we hadn't risen that early, we were in the Escort and on our way to Keighley.

With beautiful weather and the thought of a duck feast for our dinner, we climbed aboard the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway ready for a trip to Haworth and Bronte country.

Although the journey was largely spoilt by children blocking the view, in between their bespectacled heads we could still catch a glimpse of the open countryside.

Haworth is a dream: cobbled streets, cute tea-rooms and gift shops selling the tacky to the ornate, and everything in between.

Carbolic soap and sherbet fountains were on sale in the old drugs store, a tourists' delight.

After fighting our way through the surprisingly dense February crowds, we visited the Bronte Parsonage museum itself, with all its intellectual and historic splendour. A fascinating tour ended with a wander back through the streets and to our train station.

A puff of steam in our faces as we looked over the bridge and it was back to Keighley and the car.

The short ride back to Halifax and its abandoned mills (now a hotel) was quick and easy, as the countryside quickly slid into urban sprawl. The edge of Halifax is not wonderful by any stretch of the imagination.

Confit of duck for dinner, yet more amiable and attentive staff, a drink at the bar, and retiring to the comfortable bed.

We slept soundly, safe in the knowledge that we had an excellent weekend. The laughter on my friends' faces could now subside.

Halifax is great; maybe we will go to Amsterdam next Valentine's day, but it was not a wasted trip. And I can imagine birthday presents galore being bought at Piece Hall.

The White Swan Hotel, Princess Street, Halifax. Tel 01422 355 541.

Email: info@whiteswanhalifax.com

Web: www.whiteswanhalifax.com