Chef Alex Testo used to feed armies but now he just wants to be beside the seaside. MAXINE GORDON reports

DURING his 24 years in the Army, Alex Testo travelled widely, amassing many souvenirs. One of his favourite mementoes is a hunk of green onyx, acquired from a stint in Northern Iraq during the Gulf War.

"It's part of a bidet from one of Saddam Hussein's palaces," says Alex.

"At the end of the war, we were sent to Kurdistan where the Kurds were living in the mountains. Our job was to bring them out of the mountains, which we managed to do.

"Saddam had many palaces in the area. As they retreated, they ransacked his own palaces.

"We came across one of these palaces. An entire bathroom was built from green onyx. I took a piece that would fit in my pack. Back in the office, it used to sit on my desk."

Alex's career took him to trouble spots across the world including Bosnia, Kosovo and Northern Ireland.

Alex, who was brought up in York, began Army life training as a chef but after three years in Germany he sought a new challenge. He volunteered for Commando training and earned his Green Beret toughing it out in gruelling mountain training in Scotland and learning Arctic warfare skills in Norway.

"A chef in the Army is always a soldier first," says Alex. "You can't get promoted unless you qualify in certain military skills."

Promotion beckoned for Alex and he became a military instructor. By the time he was posted to Hong Kong as chief chef for the military hospital, he had married his wife Julie.

"That kitchen had the best view in Hong Kong," recalls Alex. "It was a 15-storey building and the kitchen was on the top floor with a balcony outside. From there, you got the best view of Chinese New Year with all the fireworks going off."

His Far East posting coincided with the Tiananmen Square massacre in China, which made it a tense time for the military in Hong Kong.

His next assignment was in Northern Iraq. By now he was a sergeant, responsible for catering for 120 Commandos and feeding the refugees as well.

It is in the field that the real differences between Army and civilian chefs become apparent, says Alex. "You will be in camouflage, feeding hundreds of people in improvised conditions but still having to be hygienic and provide nutritious food."

Alex's next promotion was as Master Chef for the Regiment of the Lancers, which took him to Northern Ireland, where he had to look after the culinary requirements of more than 1,000 people in several locations, including some secluded 'look-out' spots.

As this was before the ceasefire, it was an incredibly tense and dangerous time. Back home, Julie was heavily pregnant with their first child Jordan. Alex was flown over for the birth, then whisked back days later.

The next job couldn't have been more different: a catering advisor in Germany working on designing and renovating Army kitchens.

"It was not exactly exciting, but it was interesting," says Alex.

The skills he learned proved vital in his next assignment in Bosnia, where he was put in charge of turning a war-torn chemical plant into a state-of-the-art kitchen to feed more than 1,000 NATO troops.

Until that was built, Alex was based in a NATO headquarters at the Zetra Stadium in Sarajevo. Most famously, this was where Torvill and Dean won gold in the Winter Olympics. During the war it had been almost destroyed and used as a make-shift morgue.

While Alex was stationed in Sarajevo, Julie gave birth to their second son Aaron. Again, Alex was flown home for the birth but had to return to the Balkans hours later.

Kosovo was his next posting, where once more he had to establish sound catering facilities in a war zone. Besides feeding the troops, Alex also had to cater for any passing dignitaries. Tony Blair and Bill Clinton were the most memorable visitors, recalls Alex.

"I shook Tony Blair's hand and fed Clinton a hamburger," says Alex.

After his spell in the Balkans, Alex was approaching 40. Time to take stock, he concluded.

Determined to spend more time with his wife and young family, Alex decided to retire, giving up the chance of an Army commission.

He wanted to set up his own business and fancied running a hotel. The couple found the ideal place: a 13-room guest house on the North Bay at Scarborough, which they moved into in January.

Formerly known as the Givendale Hotel, it has been re-christened the Alexander and undergone a refurbishment. The look is comfortable and homely.

Not surprisingly food is an important aspect of the hotel, although the restaurant only serves guests. Alex has swapped his Army fatigues for chef whites and is serving up fancy fare to rival the best of Gary Rhodes. Stilton tart with apple and walnut salad, tray-baked pork chops with pear parsnip and potatoes and baked treacle sponge with custard were on the menu when I visited.

A flick through the visitors' book reveals page after page of praise.

For Alex, there's no question he's made the right move. For starters, life in Scarborough is brilliant for the kids. But also, it's a chance to take on another challenge.

"The Army is for young people and rightly so as young people are the healthiest, fittest and bravest," says Alex. "I've had a full career but now I've got a fantastic chance to have a second one."

Alexander Hotel, 33 Burniston Road, North Bay, Scarborough. Telephone: 01723 363178. Website: www.atesto.freeserve.co.uk