The real Israel

Flights are the cheapest they have ever been and the normally-crowded tourist resorts are pleasantly quiet.

Israel has always been a huge tourist pull. The country has beaches, religious significance, spectacular countryside and cultural diversity. And now Israel has the constant implicit threat of violence - and that is keeping the tourists away.

But this shouldn't stop you going, in fact it should encourage you.

A quiet tourist destination is still, for whatever reason, better than a busy one.

Picture this scenario. I was lying on my stomach in a forest-lined mountain health-resort, as the soft hands of a masseur soothed away all my stresses and strains. I could not have been further from distractions, military or otherwise.

The massage complete, I put on a fluffy white dressing-gown and paraded around the decadent Carmel Forest Spa resort without a care in the world.

Relaxing in the Jacuzzi, I was surrounded by friendly Israelis and we chatted in broken Hebrew and English about the political situation.

They were furious at the way Israel was being presented on the foreign news channels.

Tourism is very important to these people and they seemed more concerned at losing this much-needed revenue than living with the constant fear of violence that Sky News and the Independent describe.

But the truth is that things are not that bad at all.

As a merry band of journalists sat in the King David lounge at Heathrow airport waiting for national airline El-Al to take us away, I regaled the other travellers with stories about the Holy Land, a country I had visited many times before.

I spoke of the youngsters with guns, visible on every street corner, and I joked about the 'floozies with Uzis' - the beautiful olive-skinned females with their green eyes and their huge menacing guns. That is a way of life in Israel, but it is not something to be afraid of. It is national service and that is all.

You feel safe with the soldiers around and after a while the guns are like mobile phones in England: ever present, necessary and nothing to be afraid of.

We were tourists, and we saw some wonderful sights and few guns.

Soldiers were surveying the sea at the Lebanese border and at the occasional bus stop, but then again, aren't there armed guards in other countries?

In fact, isn't there a Brit missing in Australia after being supposedly shot somewhere in the bush?

There was a Brit killed in their hostel in northern Thailand this year. A girl killed in Japan, deaths on school trips to France and a hostel fire again in Australia that claimed many lives.

So, apart from the death of a student in recent years, shot by an Arab after hitchhiking through the desert, why are we so afraid?

Forgive me if this sounds flippant, but I would rather chance my arm in the heat and beauty of the Middle East, than go for a night out in Bradford, Burnley or Brixton.

In Israel children are accompanied to school by an armed guard, and bus and train stations are full of guards. That sort of security presence would not go amiss on the streets of London or New York.

Leaving Heathrow, there were three armed police overseeing the El-Al check-in desks, so where's the difference?

Once you are on the plane, the holiday begins. Look around you, look at the characteristics and mannerisms of the Israeli people - it is a tourist attraction in itself.

They are passionate, loud, abrasive, rude, patriotic, sensible, security-conscious and, men and women, striking and beautiful.

Two examples. While waiting for water from the stewardesses on the flight, we were encouraged by fellow Israeli passengers to fight our way forward and constantly pester the crew for our refreshment.

And then, on landing, the clapping began. It is not gratitude that the plane hasn't crashed, it is the immensely spiritual importance attached to returning to the homeland. We couldn't help but join in.

Then it was on a bus up to the port city of Haifa and the palatial surroundings of the Dan Carmel Hotel, the overnight stay of choice for prime ministers, film stars and us.

Breakfast is a sight to behold. A buffet stretching the length of a not inconsiderably long ballroom.

The wide and healthy range of salads, fish dishes and fresh fruit was to determine the eating pattern for the rest of the trip.

On our first day, we visited the remarkable Baha'i shrine. This amazing terraced garden and ornate shrine requires the tender green fingers of 100 workers to maintain its pristine condition.

For a Jewish nation to be so proud of the worldwide headquarters of another religion displays a tolerance that no foreign newscaster would attribute to the 'Jews that kill Palestinian babies'.

It is free to visit the site and a Baha'i guide will happily explain the tenets of the peace-loving religion without - and this was appreciated - trying to convert you.

Another site of tremendous interest is Rosh Hanikra. Close to the Lebanese border, this beautiful system of underground caves is reached by rickety cable cars that are best experienced in turbulent weather.

The powerful waves buffeting into the caves creates a spectacular effect, and a cooling spray much appreciated in the constant and scorching heat of this Biblical nation.

Aside from the obvious attractions, such as the underground tunnels at the crusader town of Acco or the Carmelite monastery at Haifa, or the splendid beaches at Tel Aviv, much pleasure can be derived from simply walking around the Druze or Arab villages, watching the men play backgammon and cards, the bustle of the market, the wild animals and the conservative dress and habits of the women. And there are specific and obvious highlights.

The Carmel Forest Spa is out of this world. It is all Jacuzzis, swimming pools, herbal teas and massages set against the most splendid of backdrops.

Set deep, deep in the forest, this really is an oasis of calm. It is not cheap but it is certainly worth a visit and as far from the suicide bombs and angry stone-throwing as you could get.

Much cheaper but equally worth a visit is a treasure of a restaurant named Uri Buri, on the sea edge at Acco. Here, diners can munch on every possible type of fish or seafood to the strains of the waves in the friendliest and most accommodating of restaurants. The hugely bearded owner, Uri, makes you at home and post-dinner nargillahs (hubble-bubble pipes) filled with melon tobacco complete the holiday.

Israel is a wonderful, wonderful place. Those easily put-off by the headlines do not know what they are missing out on.

Dan Rutstein travelled to Israel as a guest of EL AL Israel Airlines and the Israel Government Tourist Office.

Prices for the Carmel Forest Spa Resort start at £561 per person sharing a twin-room for three nights, to include one free treatment: £732 for a five-night package, including two free treatments: £865 for seven nights, including three free treatments. The price includes full board and private transfers from Tel Aviv, plus free use of the spa facilities and sport activities.

Seven nights at the Haifa Holiday Inn cost from £591 on a room and breakfast basis.

For a full list of tour operators and further information, please contact the IGTO at UK House, 180 Oxford Street, London, W1N 9DJ.

Tel: 020 7299 1111. Fax: 020 7299 1112.

Or visit the Israel website on www.infotour.co.il