It was going to be difficult to persuade the group to begin the day's walking. We were having coffee at more than 7,000ft under a bright blue sky on the patio in front of the Bezbog Chalet. Lassitude appeared to be setting in.

In front lay a still, azure lake. Somewhere in its depths lay the mountain refuge washed there by an avalanche the previous winter. In the distance stood the massive rock pinnacle of Dzengal, the most symmetrical mountain in the country. The scenery and thin sparkling air were intoxicating.

That morning the coach had brought us from our hotel in Bansko through a delightful pine forest to the foot of the chair lift, on which we had sailed silently above the forest to our present location.

Apart from two fishermen (who fishes at this altitude?), our party had been the only users of the lift that day. As this was our last day of walking before leaving Bansko to head to our final hotel near Sophia, there was some reluctance to pick up the gear and approach the ridge that lay between us and our goal, Popovo Lake.

However, we did walk and, as had become inevitable in this remarkable country, we were enchanted by what we met. Huge mountain vistas lay all round us, the path lead us alongside and over a rushing brook and then, after a last five minutes of effort, to Popovo Lake at the foot of Dzengal itself.

What a stunning place this was. It had an almost unrealistic beauty and solitude. Apart from the two anglers absorbed in their sport on the far side of the lake, we were alone. How good a simple lunch tastes in these surroundings, washed down with cool, clean water straight from the rushing streams.

That evening, tired but elated, we went out to a local restaurant for dinner. Nearly everyone was drinking high-class wines. At £4 for a bottle of good Cabernet Sauvignon served at the table, how can one resist? (And this was the hotel price - the wine is much cheaper in the shops).

The salad was huge, served on what looked like giant breadboards. Initially we thought, one between four, but no, one each.

Then came the main course. The same giant bread boards with a nest of vegetables supporting a full-sized sword, with a selection of meats skewered down its length. A waiter slid the meat off the sword and then, to great cheers from the assembled company, drove the weapon into the roof timbers, where it hung for the remainder of the evening.

We were entertained by a group of local musicians and singers. Since the demise of communism, folk music in Bulgaria has made interesting developments, being influenced by the "underground" music of the past and modern overseas music. As long as we kept slipping cash into the sax or accordion, the band played on.

The final treat of the day was when our driver rose from the table and motioned for me to join him. He then led a slow rhythmic traditional dance. Immediately a waiter and other customers joined the string. Soon the tables were emptied as we all took part.

Most people in Britain will have heard of the Black Sea resorts and some skiers may know of Borovets, a resort in the Rila Mountains. However, this trip was the first Mountains And Monasteries Of Bulgaria - a 15-day holiday run by Ramblers.

We had flown out from Gatwick to Sofia, on a four-hour flight, with British Airways. On landing our first task was to convert our cash to Leva, the basic monetary unit, which cannot be taken in or out of the country. However, all major currencies, traveller's cheques and bank cards and so forth are now acceptable.

Our first real glimpse of Bulgaria came when we stopped for supplies in the small town of Samokov. Its main claim to fame is having been involved in the development of the Kalashnikov rifle, but later in the week we were to discover it's true hidden delight, the nunnery.

On that occasion, the Mother Superior herself showed us around then indicated we were to remain in the outer courtyard. While we waited a nun appeared banging on a wooden sounding board with a stick. This, we learnt, was the call to prayer and was to become a familiar sound at other monasteries around Bulgaria.

The Mother Superior then reappeared with a bottle of local spirit and we were all persuaded to have a swig (or two!) before departing.

The first hotel of our holiday had been mainly used by communist dignitaries in the past but, like many state enterprises, has been privatised. During our stay guests included nuclear physicists attending a conference and a sports college staff reunion.

The rooms were pleasant and all that was missing was a lift. The meals, as at all the other hotels on this trip, were tasty and plentiful. Most meals were traditional Bulgarian dishes that kept us speculating as to the precise ingredients.

Each morning the Bulgarian guide accompanying the group laid out a selection of bread, fruit, preserves, cheese and chocolate from which we made our own picnic lunches. At each lunch stop he also produced dried fruits, nuts and yet more chocolate he had carried for us.

Christianity was adopted as the state religion of Bulgaria in AD865. Therefore one of the major features of this holiday was to visit some ancient religious sites. Bulgaria has nine UNESCO world heritage sites, one of which is Boyana Church.

The stunning frescos there date from 1259 and are recognised as some of the best-preserved examples of Eastern European medieval art. We also visited Rila monastery, the spiritual heart of Bulgaria, which contains a church museum, lodgings, the monks' quarters and a central fortified tower.

We walked to the cave where the founder, St John of Rila, had originally sought solitude for his devotions. Legend has it that if you cannot squeeze through the cave and exit via the "Miracle Hole" in the roof, you have to return home in shame for a further year of penance. Fortunately all the ramblers attempting this exercise succeeded.

The last full day of the holiday was spent in Sofia, the capital.

First we enjoyed a guided tour of the city's main sights then had a free afternoon. This provided an excellent opportunity to shop and take advantage of the considerable price differences between the UK and Bulgaria.

Finally, on the morning of departure, we were taken to the National History Museum located in an impressive building formerly used to fete foreign dignitaries. Here, among many other exhibits, are displayed huge quantities of the world's oldest-known gold and silver artefacts.

For anyone who enjoys hiking in the high mountains at a fairly steady pace, together with discovering a different and interesting culture, Bulgaria is one of Europe's best-kept tourist secrets.

Sadly, as with all emerging nations, the signs of modern culture are already present. Sofia has a Sheraton Hotel and a McDonald's, so go soon and enjoy the unaffected hospitality before it becomes overshadowed through catering to Western tourists.

Fact File:

British Airways has two flights most days from Gatwick to Sofia.

To learn more about general mountain activities in Bulgaria, use Odysseia-Inn Travel. Its website - www.newtravel.com - is full of information and the company can make arrangements for individual or group travel.

Ramblers Holidays Ltd is running group holidays in Bulgaria. It can be contacted by telephone on 0170 733 1133 or via its website:

www.ramblersholidays.co.uk

George Wright leads walking holidays in Bulgaria and is willing to give advice on general mountaineering in Bulgaria. You can email him for details on: George@casa274.freeserve.co.uk

Updated: 08:59 Saturday, September 07, 2002