IT was a simple enough request. Could she have a description of the 'fillays' of trout stuffed with crabmeat April asked, in her finest US twang. The gruff Yorkshire waiter seemed more concerned with correcting her pronunciation.

"Fill-eTs" he replied, with immense emphasis on the T.

April likes to talk. Her Oklahoma upbringing and, more recently, New York City lifestyle, has taught her that consumer society means the consumer's satisfaction is paramount. She likes to discuss the menu before she orders.

In New York, there's no need to ask. The waiting staff fall over themselves to describe in the greatest detail the taste sensation they are about to serve you, the exquisite way it is going to be served and its unique appearance.

In old York, after correcting her pronunciation, the waiter can merely repeat what the customer has already read on the menu.

"It's trout filleTs stuffed with crabmeat and wrapped in Chinese leaves," he reads verbatim.

Bemused by the lack of help, April takes the risk and orders the 'fillays'.

It seems a strange attitude in a restaurant which appears to rely heavily on the tourist market. And, at £14.50 a plate, April should be able to have her 'fillets' as 'fillays', or any other way she wants them.

19 Grape Lane looks fantastic from the outside. The whitewashed historic building, complete with slanting beams and tiny windows, promises one of the city's quaintest eating experiences.

But inside it is distinctly disappointing.

The lay-out and lighting give it the feel of a tea-shop. Our table beside the staircase is faced directly by the table by the window, while another table only a few inches to the side of us is occupied by a couple who don't say a word to each other throughout the evening.

I can understand why not. April and I have plenty to say but feel, at a volume a little more than a whisper, we are sharing our conversation with a room full of strangers.

It seems surreal that, in a room that should be full of character with its low roof, ancient wooden beams and views out on to Swinegate, the music chosen in an attempt to cover the uncomfortable silence is George Michael.

It is also unusual in a restaurant trying to break into this market that a red wine stain is streaked down a wall behind our table, especially since 19 Grape Lane only recently re-opened under new management.

The menu looks fantastic, however. In the same vein as the successful restaurants gaining acclaim in Fossgate and Walmgate, it offers adventurous meals which sound mouth-watering.

We order starters of warm sliced duck marinated in gin and lime juice (£5.50) and Wensleydale and cherry tomato tart with a pesto dressing (£5.25), along with a £12.95 bottle of the Portugese red Espiga tinto Quinta de Boavista.

The wine is great; the food, although not outstanding, good. It arrives quickly and is presented excellently. The tart is an unusual feature but tastes and looks great, and the duck is very well prepared.

As we eat, the lack of privacy means we can't help but listen to a table of tourists asking about the city's St Nicholas Fayre. Their waitress is more helpful and informative, perhaps realising that the business seems to rely on tourist trade.

April's 'fillays' arrive, as does my breast of corn fed chicken stuffed with Yorkshire cheese and wrapped in smoked bacon (£13.50).

Unfortunately, we are not impressed.

The chicken is quite small, though tasty enough. The cheese is an interesting accompaniment and seems to work, but it is ruined by a very rich sauce - so rich in fact that it can't be finished. Maybe it is a personal preference and other customers would find it delicious. For me it was too much and spoilt the food.

April's half emptied plate tells the staff what she thought.

Bland, she says. It needs seasoning and the Chinese leaves were tough, although the portion size was good.

As we finish our meal, the restaurant empties, adding to the lack of character. We leave at about 10pm on a Friday, the last to go.

Unfortunately for 19 Grape Lane, a day later we visited Walmgate's Frankie C's, a restaurant in the same price bracket offering a similar menu.

The difference was this restaurant was fantastic. The amazing, imaginative food, lively atmosphere and inspired surroundings screamed out the shortcomings of Grape Lane.

19 Grape Lane, York, telephone 636366

Updated: 10:02 Saturday, December 14, 2002