A winter's tale

IT'S amazing what a bag of hot chestnuts can do to get you in the mood for Christmas. My girlfriend and I were shuffling and moaning our way up the hill to Warwick Castle on a depressingly cold December afternoon.

But with each warming mouthful of chestnut and some friendly banter with the fingerless-glove wearing vendor by the portcullis, our Christmas spirits were slowly lifted. And they never really dipped as the delights of Shakespeare Country were unveiled.

On the promise of more craft fairs and festive shopping markets than you could shake a Stratford snow shaker at, we arranged a weekend in South Warwickshire to prevent the annual panic-buying for presents.

The fact I drove home with only a jar of home-made piccalilli and some Dragon's Breath Mustard should take nothing away from the place.

Warwick was our base for the weekend. We stayed in the friendly, family-run bed and breakfast, Cliffe Hill House, a ten-minute stroll from the town centre.

Owner Larraine Quirke was the only source of tourist information we needed, and she made enormous breakfasts which left little room for lunch.

Warwick looked spotless with its distinguished buildings and tasteful festive illuminations lining its long, straight thoroughfares. That is until you reach the main square and look to the right.

A horrendous, has-to be-seen-to-be-believed, 1960s excuse for an office block is an embarrassing architectural blot on the town centre. The illuminated Merry Christmas blazing on its drab front drew unnecessary attention to it.

The central area was surprisingly quiet compared, say, to York's Stonegate, but it soon became clear why. Everyone was in the castle.

If, like me, you were forced to spend hours following your history teacher round endlessly dull ruins on school trips, a castle visit may not be top of your list of things to do.

But Warwick is a refreshing exception, with more than enough to keep you occupied and interested, all day if necessary. Its 1,000 years of history, starting with William the Conqueror, are expertly presented with the emphasis on visitor interaction. There is much to touch, smell and try on during a tour that takes in the dungeon, torture chamber and armoury room.

A medieval household from 1471 has been recreated, with eerily-lifelike waxworks depicting numerous tasks in preparation for the Earl of Warwick's final battle. Jousting, archery and fire juggling demonstrations are held at regular intervals.

The visit was made extra-special by the Christmas Festival, held in a large heated marquee in the castle's extensive grounds. Stalls sold everything from pig-shaped coat hangers to vintage ginger beer.

With a belly full of mince pies and ears ringing from the sound of carols, I left the tent feeling as seasonally-uplifted as James Stewart after his Christmas conversion in the classic movie 'It's A Wonderful Life'.

A short drive south to Stratford-upon-Avon quickly snapped us back to reality the following morning. A December Saturday is not the best time to discover the home of Shakespeare.

Endless groups of American tourists, coupled with the frantic waves of Christmas shoppers, made it a struggle to look round leisurely. Finding a spare seat in the town's many Bard-themed pubs proved virtually impossible.

However, checking out the main tourist spots on the City Sightseeing bus was a masterstroke.

An informative and anecdote-packed commentary told us everything we could wish to know about Shakespeare as we passed the memorials to his life.

The ticket is valid all day and enables you to hop on and off at any of its 14 stops, including the playwright's birthplace and Anne Hathaway's cottage.

The Falstaff Experience, situated in a 17th Century barn in the town centre, is worth checking out for something different. It paints a humorous, sinister picture of the Stratford of old with spooky displays on witches, hauntings and plagues. Not suitable for grannies with weak hearts.

The best views Stratford offers are from a seat at one of its two world famous theatres.

The Royal Shakespeare Company has brought the bard's plays to the masses since the nineteenth century and is renowned for the quality of its daring interpretations.

We had tickets for the lavish musical production of the classic CS Lewis fantasy, The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, which has returned to Stratford for a second year.

It is full of drama and colour with the audience roaring in support of Aslan, the great lion, in his epic fight against the White Witch for the soul of Narnia.

The magical evening was completed with a curry at the nearby award-winning Indian restaurant, Encore. Great chicken Madras.

Royal Leamington Spa was our last call. A large cheap and cheerful Christmas market dominated the town and offered the best range of goods we had seen. By then though, I had overdosed on crafts and festive gizmos.

Almost a case of All's Well That Ends Well.

Fact file

For more information about Shakespeare Country visit the South Warwickshire Tourism website at www.shakespeare-country.co.uk or contact them on 01926 404891.

Standard room rates at Cliffe Hill House Bed and Breakfast start from £25 per person.

For more information visit its website at www.cliffehillhouse.freeserve.co.uk or telephone Larraine Quirke on 01926 496431.

Updated: 09:57 Saturday, December 21, 2002