It keeps flies at bay, sends us off to sleep and keeps us smelling sweet. MAXINE GORDON visits a Ryedale farm to explore the fascinating world of lavender.

IT could all have been so very different for Nigel Goodwill. For a while, he flirted with opening a garlic farm on his home turf at Terrington, near Malton. Then, after reading an article in a magazine at his GP's surgery, he changed his mind. Lavender would be his plant of choice.

Today, Nigel reigns over a 60-acre site, where around 60 varieties of lavender are grown, as well as a selection of herbs. There is a well-stocked gift shop and an 80-seater caf doing a roaring trade in all things lavender, from oils, soaps and talc to lavender-flavoured biscuits, preserves and mustards. For the adventurous, lavender ice cream and lavender scones are on sale.

During my visit on a Wednesday morning, two coach-loads of visitors are busy exploring the banks of lavender outside and taking refreshments in the caf. The gift shop is proving popular too, with people browsing and queuing up to buy lavender mementoes.

Garlic just wouldn't have had the same pulling power.

Yorkshire Lavender is the most northerly lavender farm in Europe, says Nigel. But perhaps not for long.

"We get spies in every day. There will be more and more farms opening," he says. A group of Swedes had visited recently and spoke to Nigel about setting up a lavender farm in their country.

It's easy to see why Nigel's farm, which includes the sister business Howardian Herbs, is the envy of others. Lavender is enjoying a renaissance. Whether it is plants for our gardens, products for our bathrooms or colour-schemes for our homes, we just can't seem to get enough of the purply-blue stuff.

Lavender has been grown for thousands of years, not just as a pretty, fragrant plant, but for its culinary, cosmetic and healing properties.

It is one of the earliest perfumes: a perfume jar containing lavender was discovered in Tutankhamun's tomb. Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Victoria were also big fans, enjoying lavender as a perfume and a condiment. Elizabeth was particularly fond of lavender conserve and ordered that no royal table should be without it.

For centuries, lavender has been used for its healing and anti-septic properties. Herbalists believed there were few ailments that could not be treated by lavender - often steeped in water. The plant's name, Lavandula, comes from the Latin lavare, to wash.

The growing market for natural remedies has helped make lavender popular again. Essential oil of lavender is one of few essential oils that can be applied directly to the skin and is widely used in aromatherapy for its calming effects. It also works wonders on minor burns or as a sleep aid. A few drops on your pillow, suggests Nigel, or rubbed into the soles of your feet, will send you off to the land of nod.

Apply some to your temples to relieve migraine. Lavender tea is said to relieve anxiety and work as a gentle sedative.

In fact, so powerful are these relaxing properties that Nigel struggles to keep awake at work. "I permanently feel dozy," he says.

Keeping the odd bunch of lavender in the house over summer also works to keep flies out - while stems and flowers can add flavour and aroma to foods from meat and fish dishes to honey and milk puddings.

This versatility persuaded Nigel to open Yorkshire Lavender in 1997. Originally, the plan was to grow plants for sale. Since then the vision has expanded to include the shop and tearoom, which opened last year, and plans are afoot to cultivate a further 20 acres for lavender. Perhaps lavender walks are in the offing?

Nigel's lips remain tight. "I'm very superstitious," he admits as way of dismissing my inquiries about his future plans.

The farm also includes sheep and three fallow deer, Bouncer, Geordie and Dolly. The newest arrivals are three Highland cattle, a surprise for Nigel's children Emma Jane, 13 and Sam, 15, who Nigel has raised alone since his wife Lynne died of breast cancer in 1993, aged 37. The children are on the management board and work on the farm after school and during holidays.

"It's their company, really," says Nigel.

Lynne's death prompted Nigel, a former property developer, to try his hand at a new career.

"When I started I knew nothing about gardening. I had to read lots of books," he says. On land he owned at Terrington, he began planting different varieties of lavender, to see what would happen. They did well, so he kept on going, erecting two poly-tunnels where cuttings are grown to keep the supply of lavender going strong.

The farm is in a terrific spot, affording unmissable views across the Vale of York. To the south, through the ruins of Sheriff Hutton Castle you can see York Minster some 14 miles away and the chimneys at Drax further beyond. Out west, there is Menwith Hill.

Three miles from Castle Howard, Yorkshire Lavender is well placed on the tourist route and an easy day trip from anywhere in North Yorkshire.

As an attraction, Yorkshire Lavender affords a complete sensory experience - indeed there is a dedicated garden with wheelchair access which encourages people to touch and smell the flowers and herbs planted there.

And if you were wondering what lavender tastes like, it's almost indescribable but at the same time unmistakable. It adds a subtle aroma and flavour to food, in a similar way to rosemary. Try it for yourself, you'll be pleasantly surprised. But best have a cup of tea as well to guard against dropping off on the drive home.

Yorkshire Lavender, Terrington, near Malton. Entrance is free. Open daily until November 2 10.30am-4.30pm. EJ's Tea Room open daily until September 28. Telephone: 01653 648008. Coach tours by appointment only.

Updated: 08:37 Saturday, July 26, 2003