RACHEL Lacy enjoys a medieval adventure.

We were in Aysgarth when we looked across Wensleydale and first saw the tower of Bolton Castle jutting up out of the trees.

But the glimpse didn't prepare us for how awe-inspiring the medieval castle is from close up. Built overlooking the valley, it holds a commanding view of the area and is a spectacular sight.

To some visitors it may be familiar from television or the silver screen, because it served as Prince John's Castle in Ivanhoe, and was used in All Creatures Great And Small, Heartbeat, Gormanghast and the film Elizabeth.

The five floors are sparsely furnished, as is fitting for a medieval fortress, which was also the one-time prison of Mary, Queen of Scots, before she was moved further south.

Her suite of rooms are still intact and can be visited, as can the place for the prisoners of humbler origins: the dungeon, and below it the grim oubliette.

The staff recommend that we start at the bottom, among the stables, courtyards, brewhouse and cellars. It was then a long climb through bedchambers and banqueting hall, chapel and corridors until we came out on to the roof and saw the amazing view.

It was a relief to head back down the winding staircases, through the shop and caf and into gardens.

The grounds include medieval herb and walled gardens, and a vineyard, with open access for walkers to the moorland round the castle, with maps available from the castle shop. To the joy of the children in our party, there is also a maze. We let them loose for 15 minutes to run off some energy.

Had we visited earlier in the year, we would have been able to see some of the living history events that run throughout the summer. But don't let that put you off visiting out of season. As grand as it looked in autumn, I suspect it might look best in the snow - a castle for all seasons.

Fact file

Bolton Castle, near Leyburn.

Telephone: 01969 623981. Website: www.boltoncastle.co.uk

Admission: adults £4, concessions £3, family (2+2) £10 (2003 prices).

Open: 10am-5pm (shuts an hour earlier out of season).

Updated: 08:41 Saturday, September 20, 2003