Aussie wines

The Australian cricketers are touring the Old Country this summer. Pommies like me are hoping they get a good caning from Michael Vaughan and co but the England batsmen will have to make sure they don't get caught out by Shane Warne's googlies.

In Tipping's Tipples this week I've put six Australian wine deliveries to the test. Opening the bowling are a red and white from Western Australia.

Houghton HWB is a top seller in its native country, the acronym stands for Houghton White Burgundy. Houghton HWB 2003 is a full, yet hugely gluggable and refreshing wine, ideal chilled (don't overdo it) on a hot summer night. I'd write semi-aromatic on the front label and on the back label tangy grapefruit, peppered and spiced with aromas and flavours of freshly-cut grass. The oak maturation is pitched on a perfect length.

Those who like their reds oozing ripe fruit will warm to Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2002. It is far too sweet for my taste but the blackcurrant, raspberry, rhubarb and vanilla flavours are wholesome enough.

I used to sit next to Clare Valley in maths, but I didn't realise at the time that it was a name she shared with an Australian wine region, famed for riesling but also producing some powerful reds. Here's one of each. Incidentally Clare had an older brother, Don.

Leasingham Magnus Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 is full and juicy with blackcurrant, berry fruit, mustard and other spices. It is the classic Aussie blend and beautifully executed.

Leasingham Magnus Riesling 2003 doesn't let the side down either. It is a honey-nosed yet steely-dry, peach, petrol and lemon delight with a suggestion of fizz - top tippling for riesling lovers.

I've never tasted the famous and very expensive Penfolds Grange. For now I'll have to settle for Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2001, rest assured it is no great hardship. Bin 28 is a silken, ripe shiraz matured for 12 months in toasty American oak.

The oak has a subtle influence on the well-spiced, berry fruit and lingering mint notes therein and it should cellar nicely until 2020, so you don't have to rush to drink it.

Not all Aussie wines could be said to be understated but it is true of Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2003. Like a good white burgundy, the flavours are many and subtle. Creamy textured with flavours of melon, pineapple, honey, mandarin oranges and a touch of vanilla from the careful use of French oak, it's just very classy stuff.

And that, as Australian cricketers say, is stumps.

Houghton HWB 2003, £5.99 from Waitrose, Threshers, www.sainsburyswine.com, www.tesco.com, Londis. 16/20

Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2002, £6.49 from Majestic and www.sainsburyswine.com. 13/20

Leasingham Magnus Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, £7.99 from Sainsbury's, Waitrose and Threshers. 18/20

Leasingham Magnus Riesling 2003, £6.99 from Sainsbury's, Waitrose and Virgin Wine online. 18/20

Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2001, around £10 at Somerfield, Tesco, Thresher, Majestic and Oddbins. 18/20

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2003, around £9 from Sainsbury's, Asda, Tesco, Threshers and Majestic. 18/20

Updated: 08:31 Saturday, June 25, 2005