George Wilkinson marvels at the tallest gritstone monolith in Britain.

Rudston, or Roodstone as it was once accurately called, is perhaps one of the oldest villages in England and, prehistorically, a cult centre, more on this later.

I felt a bit weak after a night under canvas, 'nothing to do with the erotic attraction of death', an affliction of local lady Winifred Holtby 1898-1935, more of her later, literally.

No, the problem had been avian, the extreme volume of the dawn chorus from the beech and ash trees.

Those who come to watch the seabirds from the cliffs at Bempton and Flamborough can doubtless cope with nature's alarm clock.

We picked a route from a leaflet handed out at the campsite.

They started it at the Bosville Arms (who is to complain?) then we tried to buy sandwiches at the village shop but had left our money in the tent, but made do with bananas for a gentle five miles.

First up, a dawdle down Gipsey Race, a clear and spring-fed chalkstream, with ducks.

Then a bit of pavement and privet. And then a track, an easy climb with a copse on a hill and views of fields chalky and green.

This is a quite a wooded part of the Wolds and the flowers along the edges of the trees and in the verges were very pretty, notably the red campion, which reminds me of the Catholic martyr, and cow parsley which is similar to hemlock, Socrates poison and stuff that makes your legs heavy before you go.

After a mile or so we took a length of Roman Road that's a narrow lane with passing places and is a cycle route.

We saw two cars, two walkers and one bicycle. On one side there was a high grown-out hedge, the other a low hedge that allowed broad views over dipping land to the sea.

Then there's a bit we did before. Admire the bungalow-sized tents at the campsite. To make an optional figure of eight of this walk take a pleasant path out of the village and a track over a bit of the farmland to the north.

But the high point of the wander is the Church of All Saints, for here is buried the aforementioned Winifred Holtby, journalist, pacifist, socialist, feminist and a novelist most notably for South Riding.

Perhaps her take on life was influenced by the 26ft and slender- shaped shaft of millstone grit that spears from the ground just yards from the walls of the church. Called the Rudston Monolith it is the tallest in Britain, astonishing, and about 3,600 years old.

After that it was all a bit of a comedown, but anything would have been, so we drove off to nearby Burton Agnes Hall.

When we got there we had hit their annual garden fair and a crowd laden with geraniums that meant a queue at the caf.

Never mind because in the hall, along with the usual oils of ancestors there's the "best collection of impressionist paintings in private hands in Britain".

Lots of them, Renoir, Gaugin, Manet... plus two intense Epstein busts and fabulous furniture by John Makepeace.

Directions:

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. From Bosville Arms, along Kilham road, 150 yards, path on left after No.7 (no sign), right to road then onto riverside path, pass play area. Right to road, bridge, 50 yards, left and through cul-de-sac to path by garden in left-hand corner after small brick building, snickelgates, through yard.

2. Left to track (signed), ignore track on right at wood (at fingerpost), track uphill by wood, swings left, gateway, fieldgate on right and track through wood.

3. Right uphill on track, right to road, verge.

4. Track on right (metal barrier, signed) and retrace steps to join outward route.

5. Straight on from bridge, left-hand bend up to Church, right to main road (pavement), 200 yards.

6. Track on left (signed), swing right then ignore sidetrack into trees.

7. Right at tracks junction downhill. Right at main road (pavement), 25 yards, cross main road, steps, 1 o'clock for 50 yards, cross campsite drive (snickelgate), cross field, snickelgate and path back into Rudston.

Fact file:

Distance: About five miles.

Time: Two hours.

General location: The Wolds.

Start: Rudston.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Sunday, June 12, 2005.

Road route: From York, A166 to Driffield and then Burton Agnes, left to Rudston.

Car parking: Roadside.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: Inn and shop in Rudston.

Tourist and public transport information: Bridlington TIC 01262 673474.

Map: Based on OS Explorer 295 Bridlington, Driffield and Hornsea.

Terrain: Farmland tracks and village.

Points of interest: The Rudston Monolith.

Difficulty: Easy.

Click here to view a map of the walk

Updated: 11:55 Saturday, June 25, 2005