Vudu Lounge, Swinegate, York

SHAKEN, not stirred. How rarely do you get a chance to utter those immortal words?

Cocktail bars ought to be the sorts of places where the ordinary punter can get a chance to forget the day job and play at being James Bond, even for the few seconds it takes to instruct the waiter on how he or she would like to drink that most subtle of evening beverages: the Martini.

But all too often that precious chance is lost. Either the drinker is not asked the all important question: "And how would you like that, sir/madam?" Or they simply forget themselves in the heady excitement of the moment.

But when my mysterious Friday night dining partner (oh all right, it was the husband) accompanied me into York's newest cocktail bar - Vudu Lounge in Swinegate - and we sat down on one of its rather decadent-looking red leather banquettes to peruse the drinks menu, both the bar and the husband were as suave as old JB himself.

He was asked by our friendly waitress what he would like to drink. A martini, he said.

Vodka or gin? She asked. Vodka, he replied. The excitement began to mount. With an olive or a twist? A twist. Shaken or stirred? Shaken, of course. My. We quivered with the sophistication of it.

Vudu Lounge is a bar which serves food until 10pm, and it also has a day time companion establishment, V bar, just a few doors away. You get to Vudu Lounge through a single door on street level and up a flight of stairs, above which is a largish square room which has been vampishly decorated in black-on-black stripes, some simple tables, and the aforementioned red sofas.

A very friendly waitress greeted us and said we could sit where we liked - and, of course, we went straight for the red leather. Well you would, wouldn't you.

It being a cocktail bar, we concentrated our initial energies on the drinks menu, which was large. You thought the only kind of iced tea cocktail came from Long Island? Try Long Beach, Tennessee or Los Angeles. There were five kinds of Martini (£6), three different Mules (also £6), and a decent list of "old favourites" including Pimms, Margarita or Manhattan. Interesting historical titbits on the origin of various drinks are dotted about, the whole thing made a pretty good read.

I chose a Classic Mojito (£6) - the one with mint, sugar, lime juice, white rum, bitters and soda. You know by now what Martin chose. That's right: a Classic Martini (£6).

Both were excellent - and us Stephenses can be harsh cocktail judges. Mr S pronounced his Martini one of the best he'd had, smooth and elegant. My Mojito was lovely: fresh, minty and strong.

Now for food. Sometimes bars can be difficult places to eat - all smoke and noise - but Vudu Lounge has managed this difficulty well, offering a simple menu with tasty but uncomplicated food that is easy to eat and does not compete with the far more serious business of cocktail drinking. Appetisers include potato wedges (£2.95), covered in cheese and served with sour cream and chives; honey and lemon chicken wings (£3.25) or Whitby King prawns and soy sauce filo wraps (£3.95).

The handful of main courses include bar-friendly fare such as nachos (£5.95), fish goujons (£6.75) and an intriguing-sounding savoury cheesecake (£5.95). There are a choice of salads too, with possible side orders including different sorts of chips and breads.

The ambitiously-entitled "best burger in York!?" (£5.95) drew Martin's eye, while I decided to go Mexican and chose Tacos filled with Chilli Con Carne (£6.95).

Both arrived promptly, and looked promising on large rectangular plates with plenty of salad. Martin was impressed with his burger, which arrived in a focaccia bun.

The meat was nicely tender and really tasty, a rarity in a burger, and the bread was a welcome change from the usual sesame. I had a bite, and agreed.

My meal were equally good; crisp taco shells filled with delicious chilli, with sour cream to cool it down and a fresh-tasting tomatoey accompaniment. It was just what you want to eat in a bar, which by now was pretty busy with a loud hum of clinking glasses and Friday-night chatter.

When we'd finished, with much enjoyment, our waitress - who really was very attentive - came very promptly to take our plates away. She didn't ask if we wanted any pudding, but it was getting late, and somehow the atmosphere didn't seem quite right anyway.

If we had wanted to though, the choices were simple: fruit with ice cream, or whipped cream and Grand Marnier; home-made white and milk chocolate Toblerone dips (wow!); cheeses and crackers; a cheesecake, or a platter described as "piled high" with locally made ice cream.

Our budget was £30 - and by this time we had racked up £24.90 and had eaten very well and enjoyed cocktails. But it was Friday night. So we stuck around and ordered another cocktail each. We felt it was what 007 would have done.

Lucy and Martin visited on Friday, April 28, 2006.

Vudu Lounge, Swinegate, York. Tel: 01904 627627.

Food: tasty Service: excellent Value: fair Ambience: buzzing Disabled access: No