CANTINA-style bars are a popular choice these days, and several have popped up along the riverside and in certain quarters of the city, with many establishments opting for open kitchens, as well as the traditional bar, plus large wooden dining tables.

Some thrive, while others fall by the wayside, but the original still remains, maintaining a high standard of food and service.

Ha Ha Bar & Grill in New Street is like a favourite pair of boots – comfortable yet stylish, and reassuringly suitable for most occasions. It has had a recent refurbishment and as such exudes a chic ambience without being too pleased with itself.

We went on a Monday evening, so expected it to be quiet, yet there were one or two tables with groups of ladies of a certain age, plus a few couples, enjoying a drink and a bite to eat. As such, it made for a warm, buzzing atmosphere, ideal for a week night, laid-back dining experience.

We were given a choice of tables by our waitress, who seemed to be overseeing both the dining area and the bar, so opted for one near both the bar and the kitchen, but firmly within the almost separate dining area.

We were offered a wine and food menu as soon as we were comfortably settled. They both offered plenty of choice. Jim decided that it was wise to choose our food first followed by the wine to complement that choice, so we ordered some deliciously tangy and large green olives marinated in mint, lemon and basil (£1.95) to graze on while we scrutinised the multi-paged menu.

We found dishes to suit all tastes and appetites, including starters, sharing dishes and light bites, sandwiches and wraps, a large section from the grill, Haha favourites, salads, pasta and risottos, extra nibbles, and more.

Jim, after whittling down his choices, decided that it would be a sin not to go with the 10oz British sirloin steak (£14.95), which is hung for 21 days to ensure that it is tender and flavoursome, and asked for it to be cooked medium.

As a vegetarian, I also had plenty of choice, but it was the risotto with butternut squash, blue cheese and walnut (£8.95) that finally won me over. I also ordered a side salad of fennel, orange and baby spinach (£2.70). We decided on a bottle of Flichman Malbec (£15.25).

We didn’t have long to wait before our beautifully presented food arrived, and we were delighted to see that they had not scrimped on portion sizes. My risotto arrived in a large bowl, steaming hot and enticing. The salad, which was also substantial, contained plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables.

I wasn’t disappointed with my choice – the strong flavours of the risotto, especially the cheese and walnuts, were the perfect foil for each other, complemented by the softer flavour of the butternut squash. The freshness of the side salad was the ideal accompaniment to the main event.

Jim’s steak looked the part – a large piece of meat with lots of skinny chips (he could have opted for dauphinoise potatoes instead), grilled plum tomato, beef jus and a lamb’s lettuce garnish. He was impressed with his steak, which was cooked ‘medium’ and “not far off” what he had anticipated.

Having thoroughly enjoyed our main courses, but feeling somewhat full, we tentatively investigated the dessert options. Now I’m a sucker for cheesecake, and there, topping the menu, above the rhubarb and Bramley apple crumble, sticky toffee pudding, Black Forest gateau and others, was raspberry and lemon cheesecake (£3.95). I ordered some with organic vanilla ice cream. It was homemade and one of the best raspberry and lemon cheesecakes I’ve tasted (and believe me, I’ve sampled quite a few). Jim finished with a coffee and brandy, the ideal end to a surprisingly excellent meal, at a very reasonable £52.

Ha Ha Bar & Grill, 17 New Street, York. Telephone 01904 655868, or visit www.hahaonline.co.uk

Natalya visited on Monday, March 2, 2009.