ONE of the biggest perks of this job, and for those working in the wine trade more generally, is that from time to time there is the opportunity to taste some very special wines.

Such an occasion arose in the summer when I was at a wine trade fair in London. I invited myself to a tasting entitled Rioja Through The Decades.

The wines, the oldest of which was a 1978 vintage, were chosen and presented by John Radford, a renowned Spanish wine expert. They were all beautifully crafted and an absolute pleasure to taste – quality Rioja reds become incredibly elegant with age.

I only wish I could have had a bottle or two of each wine to bring home and drink with food, after all that is what they are made for. I bumped into one of the organisers of the tasting a few hours later, whose intention it was to do just that.

Like me, she had been impressed by what she had tasted and had set aside a few leftover bottles that weren’t quite empty.

Her idea was to share the spoils with friends that evening. Unfortunately for this opportunistic individual, the cleaning contractors arrived before she got a chance to pack the bottles away. The wine was emptied down the sink and the bottles taken for recycling – ouch!

It wasn’t until a colleague asked me to recommend a wine to buy as a birthday present for a Rioja-loving friend that I realised I hadn’t included any in this column for some time. Judging by the amount of people who ask me to suggest a good Rioja, it’s time I put that right.

The first two suggestions are more modern in style and would suit those who tend to favour New World reds.

Asda has Bodegas Muriel JME 2005 Rioja, which is reasonably priced at under £6. Full, spicy and brimming with raspberry, red apple, vanilla and clove, it is held together by a firm tannic backbone.

Ramon Bilbao ‘Single Vineyard’ Rioja 2006, at Majestic, is quite powerful and shows bright, ripe red cherry and raspberry fruit, spices, bready aromas and subtle oak notes. The bottle looks good too.

The second pair, both from the excellent 2001 vintage, are more traditional in style. Bear in mind these wines will develop in the bottle, if carefully stored, for years to come.

The velvety textured Cune Imperial Rioja Reserva 2001 has good balance and structure, with redcurrant, raspberry, spice, vanilla and a vibrant acidity that works well with food. As does Marqués de Cáceres 2001 Rioja Gran Reserva, a rich, smooth and complex delight, with sumptuous layers of strawberry, raspberry, chocolate, vanilla and coconut oak.

•Bodegas Muriel JME 2005 Rioja, £5.98 at Asda 18/20

•Ramon Bilbao ‘Single Vineyard’ Rioja 2006, £5.99 when you buy two at Majestic 18/20

•Cune Imperial Rioja Reserva 2001, £16.99 at Majestic and Waitrose 18/20

•Marqués de Cáceres 2001 Rioja Gran Reserva, £16.99 at Oddbins 18/20