Design and David

DAVID Emanuel is used to people offering a critique of his work, but not quite like this.

"I wish you had made these shorter, dear," a pensioner tells him sternly, fingering a line of tailored black trousers he has designed especially for high street chain Bonmarché. "They are a bit tall for me."

Another woman cannot quite believe it is him.

"Isn't he good looking?" she whispers as the man himself signs autographs for the queuing shoppers in Bonmarché, Goodramgate. "I love the clothes, they are just beautiful."

David, who is used to dressing the rich and famous in his boutique in Knightsbridge, is learning much in these few hours.

"It's been a real eye-opener but it's had a great reaction," he says proudly, his ice-blue eyes widening.

"When I went down south, everybody was so pleased I had included a size 10, but now up north, people are saying don't forget about sizes 22 and 24'.

"It has been fascinating and people have been really nice. They've really picked up on the colour palette and the fabric.

"They love the easiness of some of the jersey tops too; they want something easy, comfortable and stylish but with a designer touch."

Since being chosen to co-design Princess Diana's wedding dress in 1981, David has been dressing the likes of Madonna, Jane Seymour, Joan Collins, Elizabeth Taylor, Patsy Kensit, Lesley Garrett, Shirley Bassey and Ivana Trump.

The tour of Bonmarché stores was his idea; he wanted to see how his collection of smart day and glamorous evening wear, in sizes 10 to 20, would be received by the public.

A familiar face to many, David seems incredibly engaging. Shoppers are drawn to his larger-than-life laugh and trademark styled blond hair and happily share their comments on his designs, which he promises to consider for the next collection.

High street styling is a different experience to dressing his celebrity clients in London, he admits.

"Madonna is very focused, she knows what she likes and what she looks good in," he said.

"Joan Collins likes to dress up, while Jane Seymour likes fairytale things and embroidery. I think fundamentally I want a woman to look like a woman. I don't want to try to camouflage them."

These days, it is easy to look stylish on the high street, he believes.

"There is enough affordable choice out there. In Bonmarché, they want to be comfortable," he said. "They are very keen shoppers. They want good prices and deserve it. It is possible to get stylish clothes at an affordable price and still have a designer touch."

Born in Bridgend, South Wales, the young David was torn between a career in music and a future in fashion.

He got himself a paper round and then a job in an ice cream parlour in Porthcawl, South Wales, while he pondered which path to choose.

"There were two things I loved at school; music and art, and I couldn't decide between them so I applied for both," he said. "The first offer to arrive was for art, so I thought I'd go to art school."

He went to Cardiff College of Art Later, later joining the Royal College of Art and setting up the design house of Emanuel from 1977 to 1989, with now ex-wife Elizabeth, before establishing his own label, David Emanuel Couture, in 1990.

His most famous assignment was co-designing Princess Diana's wedding dress - an ivory silk, pure taffeta and lace creation, with a 25ft train and 10,000 pearls and sequins.

"I never got sick of it, it's been my calling card," he said.

"I was blown away when I got the commission. Every designer in the world wanted that. I found out later I was the only designer not to send a portfolio to Buckingham Palace.

"Diana was very special. In America they talk about her as if she is still alive, which is a little bit spooky, but that dress has been around the globe so many times. Each time it goes on tour it raises millions of pounds for charity, I think it's in Australia at the moment."

Other projects include designing flight attendants' uniforms for Virgin Airways, and one of his favourite commissions, the costume designs for the stage musical Amazing Grace.

After watching fashion swing from the extravagant and expensive in the 1980s, to the more sombre styles of the 1990s, he is relieved to see some excitement being injected back into the industry.

That, teamed with a career in TV and radio programmes, has fuelled his passion for design, and encouraged him to film his most recent show, Shop The World.

Eventually, David hopes to move from Windsor back to South Wales, but wherever he lives he will never tire of design.

"I'm fascinated by the way you can put an outfit on a woman and completely change her," he said. "It's like dressing an actress. You can put something on and she will look completely different. Each woman is an individual."

David Emanuel's collection is in Bonmarché stores now. For information, log on to www.bonmarche.co.uk/davidemanuel.php or phone 01924 700100.