Don't be rude at the Rook!

THERE are times when it would be plain rude to have only one beer. This was one of them.

Faced with a range that stretched ten feet along the bar and half way around the world, it would have been an insult to the landlord to have settled for one – particularly given I had started with a simple pale ale.

It would be akin to visiting the British Library and reading nothing but The Beano, or choosing only one sweet from the pick‘n’mix stand. Or being granted three wishes by a genie and using the first to wish away the other two. So I had another half. And then a few more.

The Rook and Gaskill, in Lawrence Street, has long been renowned in York for its beer range but things are changing gear now. Paul Marshall, from The Waggon and Horses across the road, has taken the reins here as well and is determined to make his mark. He is on a mission to deliver the best beer range in York outside the Bar Walls, he says, with the inevitable exception of York Tap at the station. And he is certainly putting on a show.

When I visited this week, there were 15 beers on the bar and a similar number in bottles, with options from Buxton to Belgium and Cheshire to Chicago. There were fruit beers, black lagers, strong IPAs, moderate pale ales, a saison, a dubbel, a tripel and more. Something for any taste and every.

Hop Studio’s Beerjolais, for instance, is a gentle golden ale, brewed with freshly-picked English hops and with a restrained yet moreish tropical fruit taste – a good starting point at just 3.8 per cent ABV.

Kirkstall Dissolution IPA from Leeds is a slightly darker, bitter, heavily hopped ale with a stronger kick at five per cent ABV, for those looking for something with more oomph.

Opat Kvasnicák Brusinka, at the same strength, is a sweet Czech lager infused with cranberries, with a sweet body for anyone after something quirkier.

And Buxton Saison, at 6.3 per cent ABV, is an unmissable English version of the Belgian farmhouse style, oozing peachy and pepper flavours, but with a sherbet-like fizz that makes it tingle on the tongue.

Those four were among my highlights but perhaps the most enchanting aspect of the range here is that it will change so rapidly. Bitburger from Germany, on keg, is the only permanent beer on the bar; the other 14 rotate.

In addition to the Opat and Buxton, the remaining keg beers last Monday were Bernard Dark, Früli Strawberry, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Great Yorkshire Brewery’s Yasigi black lager. On cask, meanwhile, the Kirkstall and Hop Studio were joined by Redwillow Shameless IPA, Buxton Moor Top, Wharefebank’s Red Angel and Slingers Gold, and Castle Rock’s Harvest Pale and Preservation Fine Ale.

Any and all could be gone within a few days, but they’ll likely be replaced by something similar – including quite possibly Great Yorkshire’s smooth and rich Chocolate Orange Stout, about which I raved last week.

Paul aims to maintain four aspects to the beer range – a selection of four ‘safe’ cask ales that should appeal to the majority, four more adventurous cask ales from more innovative breweries, seven keg beers from around the world and a growing bottled range in the fridge, the focus of which is still being decided.

There are also three or four ciders on at a time, some simple food such as cheese boards and chilli, and the promise of live music, quiz nights and a heated outdoor area ahead. All of which makes it well worth heading back to the Rook and staying a while. It’s only polite, after all.

• Pocktoberfest takes place on October 26 and 27 at The Old Railway Station. There will be more than 50 beers from around the country. Visit pocktoberfest.co.uk for more details.

• Pivní in Patrick Pool is hosting its next beer and cheese night on Monday, October 28, starting at 7.30pm, this time with a Hallowe’en theme. Tickets are £12.50 and cover a selection of beers and cheeses. They can be booked in the bar or by phoning 01904 635464. Past such events have been great enjoyable.

• Twitter: @pintsofview