GAVIN AITCHISON raises a glass to fine old York tradition.

IF you’re out and about in York today, keep your eyes peeled for the folk in fancy dress. I don’t mean those dressed as Romans or Vikings, on their way to some festival or other. Nor do I mean the modern-day marauding hordes of stag and hen parties.

No, the protagonists to look out for today are a different band altogether. They’re the city’s esteemed dignitaries, led by Brian Smith, the Sheriff of York himself, no less. And they’re all donning weird and wonderful costumes, to head off on a very important job.

Today, you see, is Assize of Ale day, a crucial date in York’s calendar. Forget everything else the city council might get up to; this is the day that matters – the day when the Sheriff makes sure the beer in York is fit for consumption by you, me and the rest of us.

He and his inspectors will be setting off from the Mansion House just before 2pm and then going around York in two groups, to check out 12 of our finest pubs. And, get this, they want our help.

York Press: Assize of Ale 2014. Pictured on the steps of the Mansion House the Sheriff of York John Kenny reads the decloration before heading for the first pub. Picture David Harrison. (9114256)

Flashback to last year: The 2014/15 Sheriff John Kenny reads the Assize declaration

You might be forgiven, as you read this, for thinking it all sounds like little more than a glorified bar crawl, but don’t be fooled. No, no. This is a laudable old custom, dating right back to the Middle Ages – and it’s carried out for very noble reasons.

Back in those days, you see, water was invariably polluted and undrinkable, liable to leave you rather the worse for wear. Beer was a much healthier and safer way to stay hydrated and, being compassionate souls, the kings of England were keen to ensure that the ale in York was of suitable quality.

An important issue, I’m sure you’ll agree – but not an easy one to monitor. Back then, there was no Campaign for Real Ale like there is now, no Ouse Boozer magazine, and no newspaper columnists devoting their lunch breaks to inspecting the city’s pubs.

So the king of the day would turn instead to the Sheriff of York, commanding him to gather his serjeants to test the ale – and any man who failed to answer the summons could be fined.

York Press: Assize of Ale 2014. Sheriff of York Mr John Kenny, left, and jester david Beaumont assess a glass of ale in the Three Cranes. Picture David Harrison. (9114262)

Last year's Sheriff, John Kenny, left, and jester David Beaumont assess a glass of ale in the Three Cranes during the 2014 Assize.

These days, the Assize is organised by the Guild of Scriveners and, of course, it’s all a bit more light hearted. The pubs all seem to pass with flying colours – although I’d be intrigued to see what happened if the Sheriff were served a stinker of a poor pint this afternoon – and the fines are replaced by donations to the Lord Mayor’s charities, which these year are Family Matters York, Older Citizens Advocacy York, Dementia Friends and York Stained Glass Centre.

You may well have seen the "pick-a-square" raffle boards behind many city bars over the past few weeks, and the parties out and about today will be shaking buckets along the way as well.

And, most importantly, we all get to muck in. These days, the summons to the serjeants is, in fact, an invitation to everyone, with an encouragement to chip in to the charity collections as you go.

So, what are you waiting for? If you want to do your bit for your fellow beer drinker, aid the continuation of York’s fine upstanding heritage, and try a few ales along the way, then this is your chance.

There's entertainment in St Helen's Square from 11am, then a procession from Guildhall to the Mansion House steps at 1.50pm for the Sheriff's address.

From there, two groups will go their separate ways before ending up at neighbouring pubs in Goodramgate, ahead of a feast in Bedern Hall in the evening.

There are two routes you can follow.

The blue route will be led by Ian Wolstencroft with this timetable:

  • 2.05pm - The Three Cranes in St Sampson's Square
  • 2.40pm - The Roman Bath in St Sampson's Square
  • 3.20pm - The Olde Starre Inne in Stonegate
  • 3.55pm - The Three Legged Mare in High Petergate
  • 4.35pm - The White Horse in Bootham
  • 5.10pm - The Golden Slipper in Goodramgate

The green route, led by John Latimer, takes this route:

  • 2.10pm - The Blue Boar in Castlegate
  • 2.45pm - The Three Tuns in Coppergate
  • 3.25pm - The Duke of York in King's Square
  • 4.00pm - The Golden Lion in Church Street
  • 4.40pm - The Snickleway in Goodramgate
  • 5.10pm - The Royal Oak in Goodramgate