THIS column has always been a fan of rustic red wine - lovely stuff that can sloshes around jugs on tables, drank freely whatever the weather.

Well, Majestic has recently launched one such wine, the first in its stock to be made from the traditionally easy-yield Pais grape - albeit one of comparatively high-quality and more exclusivity.

It is believed that Pais was first taken to Mexico by Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés in the 1520s and, from there, spread throughout the Americas, becoming the most-planted variety in Chile's wine industry up until the turn of the century when producers jumped on the posher Cabernet Sauvignon bandwagon.

The grape has long been valued for vigour and ease of cultivation and, often harvested in much higher yields than what would be needed for higher quality wines, for centuries it was generally used for table wine, or jug wine as the Americans like to call it.

All that said, Pais is now enjoying a renaissance on a different level as quality-driven producers turn to light, fresh, fruity red wines.

This one at Majestic - Morandé Reserva One To One Pais 2015, which hails from the Maule Valley, Chile - is of that ilk.

Made by Viña Morandé, the first winery in Casablanca, the One To One series are wines from extremely low-yielding vineyards where one vine makes one bottle - hence the name.

The fact its driven more by quality than old-fashioned quantity is reflected in the price, but what you get is less a table wine and more a Pinot Noir-type light and fruity red, but still with a rustic feel.

This tipple, from a bush-pruned 65-year-old vineyard in old clay-granitic soil, has a lick of sour cherry and a savoury finish.

It's also a red that works well in this Indian summer we've had as it's good when chilled, not just drinkable when at normal temperature.

Majestic has a second wine from the Vina Morandé’s One To One series, too: a white Gewurztraminer, with grapes from a particularly cool area in the Casablanca valley.

It hails from another vineyard made up of old vines which produce only a small amount of fruit.

Gewurztraminer is rare in Chile but apparently foggy cold mornings in this part of the country create perfect conditions for such slowly ripened, aromatic grapes.

This off-dry fruity tipple has hints of rose petals, peach and citrus, with fresh acidity.

We like it, and reckon its touch of sweetness makes it one for the Indian takeaway as the weekend nights draw in.

Both the Morandé Reserva One to One Pais and One to One Gewurztraminer cost £8.99, or £6.99 on the Mix Six offer.

Staying with whites, but a more popular grape, the Co-op has an interesting Stonehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2016 on offer, with £2 off to £5.99 until October 4.

Exclusive to Co-op, this South African tipple is a cross between the Loire and Marlborough styles - zesty, fresh, with flavours of tropical fruit, freshly cut grass and pepper on the nose.

It's one for the fish dishes, or to sip away on its own.