York food writer Sam Stern shares his recipe for mussels steamed with wine & tarragon

A variation on the French classic Moules Mariniere, this simple speedy dish is sharp and sophisticated.

Feeds 2   

1 kg fresh live mussels 
4 shallots
4 cloves garlic
50g unsalted butter
300ml dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc) or Noilly Prat
A few fresh Tarragon Leaves (or fresh parsley)
3-4 tablespoons double cream
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard 
1 teaspoon lemon juice 
Salt (it may not be necessary)
Black pepper

PREP
1.    Tip the mussels into a colander in a sink under a cold running tap. Put a large bowl nearby. Rinse the shells well. Scrub them or scrape them with a small knife to clean the surface. If any mussels have black threads (beards) tug them out. Drop the mussels into the bowl as you go. Once finished, rinse them all again under cold water. Discard all mussels with cracked shells. 
Tap any open mussels on a hard surface. If they don’t close tight completely, discard them.

2.    Peel and dice the shallots. Slice two cloves of garlic and crush the other two. Measure out the butter and wine before you start to cook. Have the other ingredients close to hand. 

3.    Organise any extras such as chips, bread and warm serving bowls before you cook.  

COOK

4.    Take a saucepan that’s big enough to take all the mussels. If you don’t have the right size, split the quantities between 2 pans and cook simultaneously. 

5.    Melt the butter over a medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes until soft and translucent. Don’t let them brown up. 

6.    Increase the heat to high. Add the wine or Noilly Prat. Boil for 2 minutes. 

7.    Tip the mussels into the pan with 1/3 of the tarragon. Clamp the lid on. Cook over full heat for 2 minutes. Shake and shuffle it a couple of times. Open and stir the mussels so they cook evenly and to check they’re opening. Cook for a further 2 minutes. 

8.    Using a large spoon, share the mussels out between warm bowls. 

9.    Tip the cream into the cooking liquor. Add the mustard and lemon. Tear the tarragon in. Boil the mix for a minute or two. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Pour the liquid over the bowls of steaming mussels. Take them to the table and serve with baguette or frites!

- Sam Stern is a York cookery writer. His latest book, Too Good To Share, is out now.