Boy from York who went all the way to the top

SIMON GIRLING has a folder the size of a pillow detailing his meteoric career. This means the man described by Michael Winner as “the best restaurant manager in the world” can easily lay his hands on the letter of appointment to his first job in the hotel trade back in 1986.

It was for a post as luggage porter at the Forte Hotel in Tadcaster Road, York.

“The wage was £80 a week,” says Simon, laughing at the memory. That’s around £4,000 a year – about the price of the most expensive bottle of wine at Simon’s current place of work, The Ritz in London’s Piccadilly.

So how did a former Yorkshire choirboy and son of a York vicar scale the glittering heights of the hospitality industry? We went to London to hear his story. It was a VIP day out; we travelled first class with East Coast, restraining ourselves at the complimentary breakfast, mindful of our luxury lunch invitation from Simon.

Luxury is the word for The Ritz. Opulent, lavish, magnificent and all the other synonyms fit perfectly too.

The interior is palatial, so it is no surprise that the Royals are regulars – the Queen had her 80th birthday party here and the restaurant was a favourite of the Queen Mother and Princess Margaret. It was at The Ritz that Prince Charles and Camilla Parker-Bowes decided to make their first appearance in public together.

On arrival, Simon greets us in the Palm Court, where some 420 people take afternoon tea daily – spread over five sittings.

Then it is into the restaurant, where the jaw-dropping begins. You wonder where to look first – at the enormous 20-plus-foot windows that flood light into the grand room, made lustrous by gilded ornamentation and a ring of ornate chandeliers. Then there is the mirrored wall, again reflecting the light, and making the restaurant appear twice its size.

Sitting down for lunch with Press photographer Frank Dwyer, we look around to see if we can spot any famous faces. We have been told to keep our cameras away as guests do not wish to be inadvertently photographed.

There are no celebs to be spotted. Instead, the real stars are the food – plate after plate of perfection sent up from the kitchen by chef John Williams – and the exceptional staff. Service is faultless, and the waiters and sommeliers offer their knowledge and insight as each course arrives.

We work our way through a light apple jelly amuse-bouche and a crisp and fresh crab and apple “cannelloni” starter before turning to the more robust dishes of turbot with mushroom and chicken jus, followed by Barbary duck with quince, swede and a walnut and Madeira reduction.

For dessert, a portable stove is wheeled out and Simon flambés some Crepe Suzettes to be served with ice-cream.

Armchair cookery fans may have seen Simon before. The 43-year-old took part in Michel Roux’s Service on BBC2, training participants in how to prepare Crepe Suzette.

As one of the leading hotel managers in the UK, Simon was an obvious choice for the TV series which aimed to instil the values of good service into young Brits.

Encouraging more home-grown talent into the industry is one of Simon’s passions. “In France or Italy, what we do is seen as a respectable profession. But this isn’t so in England, that’s why we have so many people from overseas working in London.”

Simon is the exception. His career spans 26 years, during which he has worked in some of the UK’s leading hotel restaurants and with top chefs including Phil Vickery and Gary Rhodes. He has amassed many admirers and accolades en route.

And yet Simon’s feet remain firmly on the ground, in solid Yorkshire style. Of Michael Winners’ proclamation, he says: “I am very proud of it… but how can someone have eaten in every restaurant in the world? I’m sure a lot of French maitre d’s would have something to say about it!”

Winner is just one of the scores of celebrity guests and clients Simon has served. The Ritz has six private dining rooms and, as we arrive, Simon has to dash off to meet and greet a VIP. Quizzed later, he refuses to divulge their identity.

“The reason people come here is that we are very discreet,” he says.

Simon has recently been promoted and is now an executive in charge of food and beverage at the hotel. It’s a world away from his first job lugging luggage at the Forte in York.

Yet it was almost by chance that Simon happened upon his career. He left his home in York aged nine to board at Ripon Cathedral Choir School – and didn’t return until he was 18.

Instead of taking A Levels he joined the RAF as a trade musician, playing the flute, saxophone and piano. But Simon’s real passion was for sport. He wanted to change to PT instruction, but the RAF wouldn’t allow it. So he left and returned home to his parents in York.

His dad, Andrew, was the vicar at St Edward the Confessor Church in Tadcaster Road.

“I left home aged nine then went back at 18,” says Simon. “That’s really awkward when you have been your own man since the age of nine.

“By sheer coincidence, the only reason I fell into this business was that there was a hotel next to dad’s church. I went round, knocked on the door, said I lived next door and needed a job.

“They said they had a job as a luggage porter. I took it and thought it was something I would do for three or four months. But I loved it. It wasn’t so much carrying bags but the whole hotel environment that I loved. I knew this is what I wanted to do.”

Simon hopes his story can encourage other young people. “You don’t have to go into a job or a career at a high level. Just get a job and work your way up,” he says.

It takes stamina and attention to detail to succeed in the hotel industry, two qualities that Simon has in abundance.

His days are long, often stretching to 12 to 14 hours. It begins with the school run before taking the train from his family home in Surrey into central London.

At The Ritz, his day is split in half: in the morning and afternoon there are meetings as well as overseeing the staff and lunch service, for which Simon and his team wear morning dress.

After 5pm, he changes into a DJ, ready for dinner. He has Sundays and Mondays off. Sunday is a family day, usually spent ferrying his children, Oscar, eight, and Zara, five, to various sports activities. On Monday, he swims or gardens. The schedule is gruelling so it’s just as well his wife, Jenny, also works in hotels and understands the demands of industry.

“There is a price to pay,” says Simon. “I work long, hard hours, but I enjoy it so I don’t mind.”

During our visit, Simon displays his forensic attention to detail. Outside, he notices some of the light bulbs on the iconic “Ritz” sign are out and is straight on to his mobile, calling housekeeping.

“I’m very particular,” he says. “I’m very fussy with the way things are. And I am very organised. I believe these are the strengths that relate well in this business. If you look around this building, you will see that everything is immaculately placed.”

Ultimately, says Simon, The Ritz’s appeal lies in its fabulous interiors and faultless food and service. He says: “There is just no place like it. We fly the flag for British cuisine in an opulent hotel.”

Fact file

Lunch at The Ritz starts at £45 for the three-course menu of the day.

The five-course tasting menu prepared by chef John Williams costs £99 or £160 when matched with wine for each course. Afternoon tea in the Palm Court costs £42.

Find out more at theritzlondon.com

We travelled by East Coast trains to London. Standard advance returns booked online via eastcoast.co.uk start from £21. For times and fares you can also call 08457 225225 or visit staffed stations and agents.