GAVIN AITCHISON goes behind a sign that promises so much

THERE can’t be many pub signs as striking as that for The Fox and Rabbit at Lockton. The carefully crafted board, silhouetted against the North Yorkshire sky, seems to leap out at all who pass by on the A169 between Pickering and Whitby.

The rabbit, poor defenceless soul that he is, sits nearest the road, atop a grassy knoll, blissfully unaware of his plight – while just behind him, the beady-eyed fox creeps up the bank, licking his lips and preparing to pounce.

It’s a dramatic moment, the hunter and the hunted, inches apart on the brink of battle. And it does its job brilliantly, getting people talking and drawing in the punters.

But what’s the pub actually like inside? That, of course, is what matters most – so I decided to find out.

It’s clearly a place aimed at diners as much as drinkers; it’s billed above the door as a restaurant and free house, and the menu is full of elaborate dishes and evocative adjectives.

Brothers Charles and Toby Wood, who took over in 2004, have evidently spent a lot of time and money on the place, and they’ve turned it into a thriving and enjoyable spot. I was, I must say, very impressed. But not, I hasten to add, unequivocally so.

Why? Well, call me a perfectionist... but a blackboard above the bar proudly declares that the kitchen’s key ingredients all come from nearby farms, and there’s also a fruit and veg stand in the car park, suggesting a commendable regard for local produce. But that was less evident on the bar itself, with only two real ales available when I visited.

Make no mistake, they were very good ales. The first – Cropton Endeavour – is a delicious beer, light and refreshing, with a nice combination of hops. And the second – Black Sheep Best – is fantastic, justifiably well-known and well-loved in these parts. But they were heavily outnumbered by the 16 wines from four continents, which seemed to undermine the local assertions somewhat.

Marston’s Oyster Stout, John Smith’s Smooth, Stella Artois 4% and Becks Vier added to the beer options, but I couldn’t help feeling there could have been some stronger promotion of Yorkshire ales instead of foreign wines to complement the food.

With such a focus, The Fox and Rabbit really could excel, for it has an enviable setting and good style. There’s a large dining room off to the left as you enter and three smaller rooms to the right – two comfortable bar rooms and a final one that includes a pool table, juke box and TV.

There’s also an authentic rural feel to the place, with a strong hunting theme throughout. A mounted fox’s head peers out above the bar (presumably not the trophy of a victorious rabbit?) and the walls are decorated with pictures of hunting hounds, farmhands at work, and shepherds with their flocks.

And the food, while we’re at it, is something to be proud of – the dining room was packed and although I had no more than a beef sandwich with chips, others nearby were obviously thrilled with their main meals.

Were it not for the quality of all that stuff, in fact, I may not even have highlighted the beer range. But with high standards come high expectations.

So let’s just say that The Fox and Rabbit is very good – but that with a few more beers like Endeavour, and some more beery endeavour in general, it could stand out for miles around as one of North Yorkshire’s very best. Just like its sign.

• Common sense or nonsense? Follow Gav at twitter.com/pintsofview for beery news, views and chat throughout the week.