Much though I admire TV and radio presenter Jonathan Ross, I suggest he would do well to steer clear of interviewing this week's selection of wines. Otherwise we'd be hearing from a Wezerve Weazling and a Wioker Wezerva.

Not all wine commentators take an objective view of wine giants, such as Australia's Jacob's Creek brand. Personally I have no problems with a wine, if it has quality and represents value for money. JC has bashed out some good products of late. JC sparkling rose (wozay) even made it into my Christmas selection.

Just over a year ago I wrote this about Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling 2003; "...it would add soul to the lemon sole. Already exhibiting the characteristic kerosene aromas of the grape, this example is bone dry with a little effervescence. It has a wonderful acidity with long-lingering flavours of lemon and lime." For what it's worth I gave a rating of 18/20.

Sadly the 2004 vintage has not lived up to my expectations. It is bereft of the 03's redeeming qualities. Though still bone dry and with plenty of acidity, its great flavour and charm have gone. I got a second opinion from my mate Dave. He was in on the tasting a year ago and his conclusion on the 2004 was the same as mine. Come on JC, or you'll start losing friends! Perhaps Sainsbury's think the same because the wine is no longer listed there?

You could always opt for Jacob's Creek Riesling 2005 which is widely available and cheaper than the Reserve, but not on my recommendation. It is dry, for sure, but marred by too much acidity and lacking flavour.

On a tippling tangent but I feel the need to suggest a wine you might enjoy, the often impressive Marques de la Concordia Signa Rioja label will add its Reserva to the shelves of Tesco and Wine Rack later this month. I'm not always very enthusiastic about the woody stuff but this wine, despite spending two years in new French and American oak, is well balanced. Toasty coconut and vanilla oak flavours sit perfectly with ever-so-slightly sweet, red fruit. Entirely tempranillo grapes, as you'd expect from the region, this is a polished, refined product, with some velvety tannins and excellent pairing potential with a Sunday roast.

Tippling term of the week: rosso.

Not a nickname for Jonathan Ross but the Italian word used to describe red wine, most frequently of the dry variety.

Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling 2004, no listing available. 12/20

Jacob's Creek Riesling 2005, £5.99 at Tesco, Sainsbury's, Somerfield, Waitrose, Asda and Thresher. 11/20

Marques de la Concordia Signa Rioja Reserva 2001, £9.99 at Tesco, £10.99 at Winerack but on a permanent offer of 3 for 2. 17/20

Updated: 08:48 Saturday, March 04, 2006