Vennell's Restaurant, Masham

TO bon viveurs, Masham probably only means one thing... beer.

The town is host to the Theakstons and Black Sheep breweries and has become a mecca for real ale connoisseurs.

But another name can now be added to the town's food and drink attractions, Vennell's Restaurant.

Sitting in a prime spot in Silver Street, a short stroll from the Market Place, Vennell's opened last year and has already won a prized Bib Gourmand in the 2006 Michelin Guide, which celebrates "good food at moderate prices".

For a taste of what Vennell's has to offer, savour a sample menu on its website (www.vennellsrestaurant.co.uk). Dishes include risotto of smoked haddock, peas and parmesan foam, pan-fried wild sea bass with aubergine confit and bread and butter pudding with forced rhubarb compote and vanilla custard. It's English cooking with a bit of twist and shout. In the evening, two courses cost £19.50, with puddings £4.95.

When I telephoned to book (and really, you must, the restaurant has just 24 covers), I asked about the Sunday lunch menu and was told it featured dishes from the a la carte as well as a roast. Three courses cost £19.95; two courses £16.95, including coffee and chocolate fudge. They are happy to do smaller portions (and prices) for children.

It took us an hour to drive from the centre of York to Masham, a pleasant 80-mile round trip through countryside on the cusp of spring.

There was plenty of (free) parking in the Market Place.

Entrance to Vennell's is up three steps and through a heavy wooden door. It opens straight into the dining room, which is 'L-shaped', carpeted and wallpapered in shades of cream with off-white linens draping each table. We felt like we'd stepped into a well-to-do aunt's front room. It's all very proper and you could get away with wearing your Sunday best without raising an eyebrow.

I had taken my husband Nick, his father Mike and my daughter Eva, three. Firstly, we ordered drinks and the men were pleased to be able to sample some Black Sheep bitter particularly as we wouldn't have enough time to visit the brewery on this trip.

The lunch menu had four starters, three mains and four afters, and took no account of vegetarians (bar the celeriac soup and the desserts). However, the restaurant assures us it happily caters for vegetarians, but it may be worth double checking when booking.

As four confirmed carnivores we were more than satisfied with the selection.

Nick and Mike began with the chicken, ham and mushroom terrine with sweet raison chutney. They ate it on bread rolls and Nick said it was light and tasty although Mike found it a bit bland. They cleared their plates, though.

I had the chicken liver pat with toast and the same ruby-red chutney. The pat was silky smooth but lacked a depth of flavour. Presentation of all dishes was exquisite.

Eva had a small portion of cream of celeriac soup, which I had asked to be served lukewarm and it was. She polished off the lot. I pinched a spoonful and found it smooth and creamy with a lovely, earthy flavour.

Mike had the roast rib of beef with all the trimmings and was not disappointed. The beef was cut thinly and was beautifully pink in the middle. Red wine gave the gravy an extra punch.

Nick's belly pork confit featured thick slabs of tender meat coated in a cream sauce with apple sauce. It was absolutely delicious.

I ordered the fish pie and was impressed with the contents: slices of scallops, prawns and mussels mixed with flakes of haddock and salmon and peas in a tangy, cream sauce. The mashed potato was piped on the top in a grid and browned to give a crunch with every bite.

The waitress asked if we would like an extra plate for Eva. On to this we gave her a little bit from all our meals, including the seasonal selection of veggies which featured broccoli, sweet carrot batons and cauliflower and cheese.

Eva and I had chocolate mousse for pudding. It was thick rather than airy and sweet rather than bitter, we couldn't fault it.

Mike's bread and butter pudding was spicy and stodgy and stood proud in a sea of vanilla-infused custard. He loved it.

Nick was also full of praise for the vanilla and Grand Marnier panna cotta with orange sauce. It was soft and creamy and lovingly fragranced.

After coffee and melt-in-the-mouth chocolate fudge we settled the bill of £80 (they'd charged us a fiver for Eva's soup and pudding which we were happy with).

Driving back to York we were delighted to have found such an excellent new restaurant. If only it wasn't so far away.

Maxine visited on Sunday, February 19, 2006

Food: delicious

Service: leisurely

Value: very good

Ambience: refined

Disabled access: No

Vennell's Restaurant, 7 Silver Street, Masham. Tel: 01765 689000

Updated: 16:36 Friday, February 24, 2006