WHEN I was a lad, t' highlight of the week, was when my Dad took us to Morrisons at Yeadon (that's the place near Leeds Bradford airport).

But it was 1973, I was only young, and large supermarkets were still a novelty. I'm sure that store, I've not been back for decades, has undergone a few changes since. The addition of it's own organic wine range for instance.

Because I'm snooty hootered, I wouldn't dream of taking a supermarket own-label wine to a dinner party. But the front labels of this new range of organic wines are quite respectable, primarily because the Morrisons name is only in small print on the back. Lack of a vulgar label gives these wines potential as a dinner-party offering . Particularly as they are suitable for vegetarians and vegans but more particularly because they're quite cheap (as organic wines go anyway). I tried three from the eight in the collection.

I didn't know what to expect from the Greek Merlot Cabernet 2003. I was pleasantly surprised but it is the most expensive at £5.99. Ripe, full and juicy, with plums and blackcurrant, it benefits from some supple tannins and a little oak maturation.

Corbieres 2002, with aromas of garrigue, is a smooth blend of carignan, syrah, grenache and mourvedre from the appellation in the south-west of France. It's spicy stuff with herbs and blackberries.

Spanish Shiraz 2004 is hardly over-burdened with complexity but is, at least, of a very easy-drinking style. There's a little pepper among its jammy, ripe, berry fruit flavours.

Away from the organic range, Morrisons has added a number of South African wines to its list.

First Cape Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is an approachable and nicely textured mix of raspberry, cherry and violet, with sweet berries on the nose.

I was also entertained by the food-friendly Jordan Shoemaker Sauvignon Blanc 2005, from the Stellenbosch wine-producing region. This blossom-fragranced, ultra-crisp, dry and minerally example has notes of gooseberry, grapefruit and asparagus.

Morrisons Organic Greek Merlot Cabernet 2003, £5.99 at Morrisons 15/20

Morrisons Organic Corbieres 2002, £5.79 at Morrisons 15/20

Morrisons Spanish Shiraz 2004, £4.99 at Morrisons 14/20

First Cape Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, £5.99 at Morrisons 15/20

Jordan Shoemaker Sauvignon Blanc 2005, £6.29 at Morrisons 15/20

Tippling term of the week: Penetrating

Used to describe wines that have strong aromas, but avoid using the wine term, good length, in the same sentence.

Updated: 16:03 Friday, February 17, 2006