THIS week we reach another milestone. This is our 400th review of the snack spots in and around York.

Looking for a venue that is quintessentially York, Mulberry Hall seemed to fit the bill.

Ann had to be steered gently past the attractive displays of fine china and glassware. The sales were on.

We climbed a steep stair. There is no lift in this shop which combines a number of old buildings. Some of the rooms have very low ceilings and protruding beams. You have been warned!

We were greeted warmly and shown to a table by the window. Stonegate was not an attractive sight. The umbrellas were up.

The tables are close together so conversation tends to float from one to another. The walls hold a pictorial history of china manufacture.

The menu includes scones (£1.65), toasted teacakes (£1.45), muffins and toast. A Yorkshire cream tea for £4.35 would provide homemade scones, butter, fresh whipped cream and strawberry preserve. Coffee varies in price from £1.55 to £2.75.

Conventional sandwiches are priced £3.05-£4.65 and open sandwiches, which include composite salads, £5.25 to £5.85.

However it was cold and wet so something hot was called for.

Ann fancied the hot vol-au-vent with prawns, smoked salmon and mushrooms in a creamy white sauce and salad (£6.65). Her request to have it without the salmon presented no problem. Her reaction when the food arrived was mixed.

The vol-au-vent was excellent What came with it was described as "a salad and a half". The three coloured peppers, tomato and celery were chunky in comparison with the lettuce, cucumber, cress and radish which were daintily presented.

I selected homemade vegetable soup (£3.55). The freshly-baked roll was delicious. Butter came in a small dish. However the soup was far from hot.

Normally in these circumstances I say nothing but report accordingly. On this occasion I asked for the soup to be reheated. This was done with apologies - "the heat must have been switched off".

My soup was piping hot when it was returned and full of flavour. However we fail to understand how a kitchen can release food that is not up to temperature.

I still had room for pudding. From a choice of cheesecake, strawberry tarts, meringues and shortbread, I chose cherry tart with cream (£2.25). It was tasty and the cream freshly whipped.

We concluded with a pot of tea (£1.85 per person) served, as you would expect, in Wedgwood china.

Updated: 10:12 Saturday, January 21, 2006