Mike Laycock visits the Land of the Prince Bishops

It has a fine cathedral and castle, dating back to Norman times and of such architectural and historical importance that they are recognised together as a World Heritage Site. It has narrow winding streets and snickleways, featuring some excellent pubs and cafes. And below them it has the River Wear, lined with peaceful woodland walks.

And it is only a 90-minute journey up the A1 from York - or better still, just 45 minutes on a GNER train up the East Coast line.

I'm talking about Durham City, where I spent a very pleasant few hours recently with my wife (our children were otherwise engaged, and it was probably just as well - this city's treasures are really more of interest to adults than thrill-seeking youngsters).

The old city is situated on a peninsular created by the Wear.

This provided a defensive stronghold for the Prince Bishops of Durham, who for centuries ruled the area with their own armies, courts and coinage. Durham Castle, which dates back to 1072, was their seat until 1832. It now houses part of Durham University.

The nearby cathedral was founded in 1093 to house a shrine to St Cuthbert, and down in the treasury below the building, in a recently refurbished exhibition of objects representing 900 years of the cathedral's history, are relics of Cuthbert including the remains of a portable altar used by the saint himself in the seventh century. There are also richly-illustrated manuscripts and bishops' copes and stoles, including one worn by Charles 1 during a visit in 1633.

As well as the usual historic stained glass, the cathedral also had an excellent brand new Millennium Window, which is the first stained glass window I have ever known to feature a computer - and why not?

After exploring the cathedral's delights, we wandered down through the picturesque streets to the city's square, where we enjoyed a lunchtime snack in the old Market Tavern before exploring the shops and then heading down to the riverside for a stroll along the banks.

We hadn't time on this occasion to visit a museum of archaeology at The Old Fulling Mill on the riverbank, where the history of the city is illustrated with material from various excavations conducted over the years.

Nor had we time to go on a boat trip along the river, but I understand it provides some of the best views of the city's dramatic skyline. We hope to return to Durham before too long, and when we do we'll definitely try out this treat.

Fact file

Durham Cathedral: Open (through the summer) Mondays to Saturdays 9.30 am to 8pm, and Sundays 12.30 to 8pm. Admission free but donation requested. Disabled access.

Treasures of St Cuthbert: Open Mondays to Saturdays 10 am to 4.30pm, Sundays 2-4.30pm. Admission: £2 for adults, 50 pence for children. Disabled access. Inquiries: 0191 386 4266.

Information on GNER services to Durham: 0845 7484950.

PICTURE: Durham Cathedral towers majestically above the River Wear