MAXINE GORDON raises a glass or two to a railway experience of a bygone age

As I arrived on Platform 11 at York Railway Station, I had one regret. I wished I'd dressed up more

There I was about to climb aboard a splendid 1930s-style carriage to sample a trip back to the sheer luxury of train travel Edwardian style and I looked more like a day-tripper heading for Blackpool.

For when it comes to travelling on Regency Rail's luxurious train, there's one lesson I quickly learned: You can never be over-dressed.

Elegance is the name of the game here. Carriages have been skilfully converted into plush, dining cars, complete with deep, sumptuous armchairs. Tables are covered with fresh, crisp linen cloths and set with the finest china, glassware and silver.

The chintzy furnishings are so evocative of the era: brocaded curtains, with tie backs, pretty table lamps with fringes and patterned velvet cushions.

As we boarded we were shown to the LMS Club Car, an authentic recreation of a 1930s carriage, where morning coffee was served. Regency Rail runs a series of luxury travel-and-dine trips across the country.

Today's voyage was from York to Carlisle, heading there up the West Coast line and back on the stunning Settle line, across the famous Ribblehead viaduct. From York, it headed south and west, picking up passengers en route.

As it pulled out of Manchester Piccadilly station, we were called to the exquisite dining room for lunch. Champagne was lavishly supplied by a stream of polite, charming waiting staff, who also skilfully managed to deliver a silver service, three-course meal as the train trundled north through a most green and pleasant land.

A Provencale soup with basil cream and continental breads was followed by perfectly-cooked salmon with asparagus and a creamy, prawn sauce.

Dessert was a delicious concoction of sponge, cream and forest fruits. Coffee, mints and liqueurs finished it off. As I relaxed into the expansive dining seat, I listened to the gentle rattling of Wedgewood china against silver cutlery and crystal glass and thought of one word: money.

The whole experience spoke of money. Of wealth and sheer self-indulgence. For the Regency Rail experience doesn't come cheap. Average prices are £100 per person. Yet in the scheme of things, it's quite reasonable.

Regency Rail is owned by Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. What you in fact are buying into is an Orient Express experience, but at a lower price. And when you consider that the entire package includes a three-course meal, a five-course dinner with champagne and wine on tap as well as a lovely train trip in not-to-be-forgotten surroundings, its positively value for money.

This year, three of the company's many trips leave from York station. The next outing is a re-run of the stunning Carlisle and Settle route, on June 9. It includes a two-and-a-half hour stop over in Carlisle, where passengers can enjoy a guided city tour.

On June 23, there is a trip to the Welsh Marches. Travellers have the choice of disembarking at Church Stretton, Ludlow or Hereford. On July 2, a special, four-hour lunchtime excursion heads across the Dales, criss-crossing the River Ribble and passing the historic town of Clitheroe.

A word of warning. One Edwardian tradition the train has not retained is a smoking carriage. The company operates a no-smoking policy. Some of the trips can be long (York to Carlisle was an 11-hour outing), something to consider when you book.

Special diets can be catered for, but you must inform the company at time of booking.

And as for dress: the rule is smart casual. Jeans are banned. Many people wear suits and some bring a change for dinner, with DJs not uncommon. If only someone had told me that.

For more details and bookings telephone 01706 240000.

PICTURE: Maxine climbs aboard for the luxury Regency Rail experience, wishing she'd donned her glad rags Picture: Frank Dwyer