GEORGE WILKINSON notches up the contours of Swaledale

For a change I'd driven the red-flagged road from Leyburn to Reeth which brings you out to a surprise view of the town.

Having come so far north and run the gauntlet of the Army firing ranges, rain seemed unfair.

Luckily, while I was ensconced in one of the many watering holes, watching Friday market-traders hanging on to tarpaulins turned to kites, the sun came out.

Just the thing for Swaledale's glorious and famous traditional hay meadows which are best in June and July. They carpet and light up the first gentle and pretty mile or so up the River Swale. One bank, then the other, via a rather twisted and taped-up (electrician's black tape!) suspension bridge.

All the while as you amble, stage two stands obvious, High Harker Hill, about 1,000ft above, smooth, bare and imposing.

Ascent is much easier than it looks, an angled half-an-hour on a fine track. As you notch up the contours, scrub of ancient juniper blends to a sparse moorland mix and upper Swaledale snakes way out west. Shortly after a rabbit's playground, you meet the top track that eases you over the summit. Now you see Arkengarthdale, the most northern valley in the National Park, and on the long easy descent, mid/low Swaledale below Reeth.

The town itself is hidden for some time, reappearing neatly encircling its green. The castellated building we are heading towards is a youth hostel. I hope you enjoy the cunning road avoidance drop into Grinton and spot the wooden aqueduct.

The finish is yet more meadows, just can't get enough.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Leave village green on lane with Barclays Bank on right and The White House on left, walled path by pottery (signed to river) to lane, left at T-junction by bungalows, right at T-junction (signed Surgery and Swing Bridge), lane turns to track.

2. Before fieldgates, left downhill on walled path (100 yards after last house), fieldgate by barn, footbridge and grassy path to River Swale.

3. Gate and bridge over River Swale. Straight on for 200 yards, footbridge and right by wire fence. When wall on left ends, through gateway with pallet-type gates on right (bridleway sign) and 1 o'clock across field back to river.

4. Left to riverside path. Stile/gate, stile/gate, stile/gate and 11 o'clock uphill to grassy path above river.

5. Fork left 100 yards up to wooden fieldgate (coloured spots either side) and path 100 yards up to lane.

6. Left to lane, pass Stubbin Farm entrance on left, first grass track on right, uphill (signed bridleway). Join stone track and continue uphill. After track bends left after clearing with scree the right of way shown on the OS map diverges slightly from the track, seeming to run over roughish ground 1 o'clock uphill to about 100 yards to left of building. In poor visibility stay on track.

7. Left to stony track.

8. At 'crossroads', where stony track swings sharply left (north), and another track comes in from right (south), go straight on to grassy path/track. Ford (a dribble when I did it), fieldgate.

9. About ten yards before road, faint path on left downhill (pass large, circular, mostly collapsed, sheepfold on left), meeting road at gate above house by gill. If overgrown by bracken later in summer, road is ok.

10. Left to road, 300 yards, stone bridge on left and immediately right to gated squeezer (by gate to The Old Vicarage, sign), path by stream, gate and left to road.

11.Stone bridge in Grinton and immediately squeezer on left and 1 o'clock across field, snicklegate and 1 o'clock, gate to riverside path, gate and left to road (pavement).

FACT FILE

Distance: Six and a half miles.

Time: Three hours.

Start: Reeth

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: June 4, 1999.

Road route: Reeth is west of Richmond on the B6270.

Parking: Around the green, 50p half-day, £1 a day (Honesty Box), or free in nearby longstay car park.

Lavatories: Village green.

Refreshments: Pubs and cafs.

Tourist & public transport info: National Park Centre in Reeth, 01748 884059.

Map: Based on Outdoor Leisure 30, Yorkshire Dales northern and central areas.

Terrain: Steepish 900ft climb. Mostly good surfaces.

Footwear: Walking boots - clean to avoid transmitting alder disease.

Points of interest: Views of northern dales, meadows, earthworks.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

PICTURE:Suspension bridge over the Swale