GEORGE WILKINSON finds hitting the heights around Nidderdale an exhilarating trek, yet not too taxing

Pay Here, reads the sign in the National Park's Grassington car park, £3.50 on a Saturday, up since last week, a good cause but you should get a guided tour for this.

The morning was warming by the minute. A cuckoo called from faraway, a greater spotted woodpecker hammered out an urgent tattoo.

I was parked by a blocked-off railway tunnel in Upper Nidderdale with an aim to get high before the sun did.

Nearby, potholers were encasing themselves in green rubber to spend a lovely day underground.

We cross the riverbed, it's nearly always dry, and begin our climb. Our start is on the elbow of the valley and the way the views unfold is delightful.

We head up and up, a direct 700ft over a mile, destination... the skyline. Colours soften, the path seems little used and there's no sign of Scar House Reservoir yet. Don't look back near the top.

It's only really when you meet Dale Edge track that you get the marvellous views.

Because now the dam is full on, two and a half miles up the valley, a 1,825ft-wide stone curtain with ten arches. Above it, a disc of water, a slice of blue. Behind you can see the mass of Great Whernside.

Have a sandwich stop here, it's a great spot, the rest of the route is level or gravity-assisted. The track along Dale Edge was easy.

You gradually close on the dam, picking up its detail. Otherwise the views don't change much for a couple of miles. Invisible skylarks outnumbered eye-catching mountain-bikers.

Eventually grass shades to heather and then you see two reservoirs ahead, Scar House and the smaller Angram above. Immediately check over your left shoulder and you'll briefly see the third of the sequence, Gouthwaite, to the south. A deep, well-like shaft is fenced off.

Then a gully deflects our path down to the valley floor, a zigzag descent, pretty with streams.

The walk was lush for a while, the river wet and dry.

For half a mile, a clear beck's worth danced through bare boulder bed. Then nearly back at the car park, it instantly vanished.

Fifty yards on is a big cave, listen and you'll hear the rushing flow.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

Right along lane, concrete squeezer on left by old fieldgate, 50 yards, fieldgate to farmyard, squeezer, 100 yards, right between barns, cross riverbed (usually dry).

Gate to field, 50 yards, 1 o'clock then zigzag uphill and left to path by wall.

Fieldgate into garden, round left of house, fieldgate by house, 50 yards, gateway (with old fieldgate) on right, 11 o'clock to gateway (old fieldgate), 50 yards then right (east) uphill across field to fieldgate by barn to moor.

Left to path/small track in rough grass which peels away from wall up to nearest of two thorn trees, then zigzags uphill (south of old fence posts running up hill) to small fieldgate in wall. Straight on uphill - no clear path.

Left to contouring, stone/dirt track (three fieldgates).

Fenced mine shaft, 11 o'clock downhill for about 100yards to meet stone track, left, 100 yards, path at 1 o'clock downhill across moor (white posts) to fieldgate.

Grassy track right and downhill, fieldgate, fieldgate and track swings left.

Fieldgate by wood, right at fingerpost at triangular junction of tracks, fieldgates (most were open), cross lane at bridge, fieldgate to riverside path, stile, fieldgate, gateway, footbridge and left, squeezer, stile, stile on right up to car park.

FACT FILE

Distance: Five and a half miles.

Time: Three hours.

Start: Parking area two miles from Lofthouse on Yorkshire Water road to Scar House Reservoir.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way and permissive paths.

Date walked: April 28.

Road route: Lofthouse is six miles north of Pateley Bridge, up Nidderdale. Leave Lofthouse on the Middlesmoor road, immediately bridge and right at Yorkshire Water signs.

Parking: Free car park by sharp left-hand bend (sign) where blocked off railway cuts through rockface. Ignore pay 'n' display/licence holder signs.

Lavatories: At dam. Refreshments: Pub at Lofthouse.

Tourist & public transport info: Harrogate TIC 01423 537300

Map: Based on OS map Explorer 26, Nidderdale.

Terrain: Steepish climb, mostly good tracks.

Footwear: Walking boots or shoes.

Points of interest: Reservoirs, Upper Nidderdale, and views.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather Forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

PICTURE:A mountain biker enjoys the challenge and beauty of Dale Edge track, Nidderdale

Click here to view a map of the walk