George Wilkinson beats the crowds to Wensleydale to revel in morning serenity
I got up very early to steal a march on the Easter armies. Too early for early morning coffee at the car park tea caf, and I'd forgotten my fish sandwiches. Never mind, hazy Wensleydale was somnolent and Jervaulx Abbey enchanting.
The intricate Cistercian ruins are privately owned and quite a contrast with those at Rievaulx, Fountains etc. The broken walls and arches are planted up and wild with flowers, like exotic rockeries. Such a change from the bio-sterility of English Heritage sites. There's a 50p guidebook to the 180 or so plants.
Then a mile of parkland, notable for the Windy Hills which are magic little mounds.
Kilgram Lane was quiet and provides a good sight, over holly hedges, of the houses of Thornton Steward a mile away on low hillside. To reach the village we cross the Ure, which was wide, placid and clear, and take half a dozen nicely hedged fields via a farm.
There's no through traffic in Thornton Steward, nor any food, so I dug into a long overlooked rucksack pocket and disconsolately munched antique emergency rations. We cut through a wood at the end of the village. The rooks were flying about with nest sticks. Then a mown path contours across rough grass curlew fields, the river curves below in Wensleydale and we close on Danby Hall. As you approach the mansion looks conventional enough - two wings and an avenue of trees.
These first impressions are soon dispelled. It's an extraordinary structure, an outrageous and likeable mix of geometry and texture.
There are various shapes of bays, two towers are octagonal, one is square, part is of cut and dressed stone, part rough; plus tiered porch and extensive terraces, all set in perfect parkland of specimen trees and buttercup-sparkling turf. You won't miss the blaze of pollarded orange willows. We descend gently to the River Ure which is vigorous and characterful, with islands, mill remains, and banks verdant with the hurry of spring flowers.The River Cover joins the Ure here, a complex confluence. You cross two consecutive bridges and end up going down the Cover. But not for long. The waters meet and take the name Ure and you're on the last leg.
A floodbank provides an ace and effortless one a half-mile finish to a super-civilised walk. Start-of-season trout fishermen cast their flies across the crystal water as I strode past, hungry for the good nosh at the Abbey Tearooms.
DIRECTIONS
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
1. Cross road from carpark, path, 150 yards, right to track (or straight on for Abbey entrance). Cattlegrid/fieldgate to road.
2. Cross River Ure, 100 yards, stile by fieldgates (sign), pair of fieldgates and path at 1 o'clock, stile, stile/fieldgate and immediately right (signed), stile/gateway.
3. Fieldgate to left of garden/orchard, track 50 yards, left to stile (not fieldgate into farmyard), then immediately left by hedge. Stile/fieldgate, stile/fieldgate, stile by copse and 1 o'clock uphill. Cross slightly uphill (gates and stiles) the very narrow fields behind village, cross track and stay on path around back of houses into village.
4. Left to road, fieldgate at end of village (Manor Farm), 50 yards by wood on right then iron gate to path through wood (signed).
5. Contour path across field (signed), double stile, 11 o'clock to house.
6. Fieldgate, 11 o'clock across yard to squeezer, stile and 11 o'clock to iron squeezer in railing fence, stile/fieldgate and 1 o'clock to large oak tree then track south of hall. Fieldgate.
7. Track joins road, left at T-junction, bridge, left at T-junction, bridge then gate on left (signed), 50 yards, path swings right then stays by river.
8. Fieldgate and right on track, left to road (verge).
FACT FILE
Distance: Seven and a half miles.
Time: Three hours.
Start: Jervaulx Abbey.
Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way and a permissive path.
Date walked: Friday, April 2.
Road route: Jervaulx is on the A6108 north-west of Masham.
Parking: Car park with £1 honesty box for those not visiting tearooms nor abbey.
Lavatories: Jervaulx Abbey Tearooms.
Refreshments: Jervaulx Abbey Tearooms. Pub at Cover Bridge on route.
Tourist & public transport Info: Leyburn TIC 01969 623069
Map: The OS map is Pathfinder 630, Middleham and Jervaulx Abbey.
Terrain: Nearly flat, good tracks/paths.
Footwear: Walking boots, stout shoes, or trainers if dry.
Points of interest:Jervaulx Abbey (optional, adults £2, child £1.50), two parks, River Ure and Danby Hall.
Difficulty: Moderate/easy.
Dogs: Suitable for dogs on leads or under close control.
Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418
PICTURE:Jervaulx Abbey looks enchanting in the early morning Wensleydale haze
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